Harkness variation 

FA:  Chris Harkness (June '05) New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad, Aid Consensus:  5.8 A2+ [details] Length:  3 pitches, 550 feet, Grade III Season:  summer Views: 36 page views Submitted By: chrisharkness on Jul 12, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

This is the huge left-facing dihedral on the right side of the west face, clearly visible from the parking lot. Begin by climbing "Conquistador" to "Abject Cathexis", a crack system on the right side of the massive left facing dihedral.

I soloed this in June '05 and removed what appeared to be the anchor at the high point for the FA party of Abject Cathexis (A3). I'm not sure why they decided to bail at this point, but the route continues up through the obvious crack system that eventually deteriorates into the typical choss found at the top of all routes. Some loose rock, but otherwise a fun route. I could see this route possibly going hammerless; maybe even free.

Location 

right side of west face

Protection 

Standard aid rack to #4, double set of small nuts, knifeblades, lost arrows, sawed off (or tied off) angles, birdbeaks.