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Park Politics 

5.11b R

   

FA: P. Kingsbury, D. Lombordozzi, J. Kilroy, C. Brown Sept 29, 2007
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 130 feet
Views: 233 page views

Submitted By: TomKingsbury on Oct 12, 2007


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Above the thin start, but still below the crux. (t...


Description 

Starts by climbing a thin slab and crack that leads to the obvious roof. Pull the roof, and follow the thin crack above to a nut anchor. 130' (no go on the bolt permit) although run-out during the lower and easier slab (5.9ish), the crux is well protected with small and offset cams


Location 

the crack between 'spank the monkey' and 'blotter is my spotter', with a roof about 100' of the deck.


Protection 

lots of finger sized cams (yellow), rps, and some hybrid aliens. (lemon-lime for the crux)



Add Comment Comments on Park Politics
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By TomKingsbury
Feb 11, 2008

It is possible to toprope this route by climbing 'Spank the Monkey' (5.10d), which is one crack system to the right. 2 ropes needed.

By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Jun 16, 2008

Nice work Pat! This thing would be a spicy lead, and is a fun TR after climbing Spank the Monkey. Delicate, insecure, flared stuff similar in flavor to Deadpoint.