Livin' the Dream 

FA:  Nathan Kutcher & Rebecca Lewis New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.11b [details] Length:  2 pitches, 300 feet, Grade III Views: 137 page views Submitted By: chossmonkey on Nov 19, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Rebecca Lewis finishing the crux on the first asce...

Description 

Climb pitch one of Oneway Sunset. At the 1st belay go left onto California Dreaming. At the chains for California Dreaming keep going up to the big roof. Stem your way out the roof out onto the face. A #1 WC Rock mid roof and a 3/8" RB at the lip protect the moves out the roof. Follow the thin crack up to the crux and a two bolt anchor. Continue up the crack using a combination of stemming, jamming and face moves. Follow this corner crack system to the top. A belay could be set at the Cali. Dreaming chain anchor but running it all together makes for one excellent long pitch. Rap the route.

Location 

The route climbs the line of the Oneway Sunset Rappel route. Climb pitch one of Oneway Sunset. At the 1st belay go left onto California Dreaming. At the chains for California Dreaming keep going up to the big roof.

Protection 

Double set of mid to small nuts, one set of larger nuts. Double set of cams from 0 Metolius to #3 Camalot plus a #4 & 4.5 Camalot, 3/8"RB, Double length runners for under the roof.