California Dreaming 

FA:  1989 - F. Sanders & L. Kirk Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.11b [details] Length:  1 pitch, 100 feet Views: 432 page views Submitted By: nolteboy on Sep 10, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

CALIFORNIA DREAMING (aka Kernal Sandfly) is one sweet route. A little easy face climbing to get started, and then it's a full-on stem-fest for most of the pitch. Although no single move approaches .11b in difficulty, the grade takes the "Tower enduro factor" into account (not a long pitch by Tower standards, but the calves will probly be talking by the time it's over). Interesting features on the right wall and a good rest at 2/3 height help keep the difficulties manageable.

Location 

Located just right of the NW buttress- same area as CAROL'S CRACK and ONE-WAY SUNSET (the latter makes a great approach pitch, since CALIFORNIA DREAMING doesn't start from the ground. One could also climb BUSTER CATTLEFIELD instead.) From the belay at the end of p.1 of ONE-WAY SUNSET, look up and left into the steep, right-facing dihedral.

Protection 

Protection is very good. Shortly after leaving the belay a yellow alien gets you to the first of six well-placed bolts, after which you'll need a few odd pieces to see you to the chains (stoppers & smallish to medium cams).