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Spank The Monkey 

5.10d

   

FA: Jim Schlinkmann, Mateo Pee Pee and Carl Coy
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10d [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 150 feet
Views: 644 page views

Submitted By: John Gunnels on Apr 27, 2006


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Description 

Steve Gardiner's guidebook says "Destined to become another short West face classic". INDEED! The first half of the pitch is a fun 5.8 hand crack that many consider "tricky"... and the second half is nothing short of incredible. Face moves and a thin crack in the dihedral really mix it up. Keep your head... the crux moves come in the final 20 feet.


Location 

The route is located two cracks left of Brokedown Palace.


Protection 

RP's, two sets stoppers and BD Camalots to #3.



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By TomKingsbury
Oct 16, 2007

although the route looks grassy from below, you are actually climbing the crack on the right face, which is quite clean; and proves to be another tower classic!

pk

on a side note, this is pitch one of layton kor's 'saber' route, first climbed in 1964