Bloodguard 

FA:  FA (as "Non-Dairy Creamer" III 5.8 A3): Chris Ballinger, Jim Lynch, & Frank Sanders - 10/12/1977 FFA: Skinner, Wald, Cowan, & Piana - 7/19/1984 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.11+ [details] Length:  1 pitch, 160 feet Views: 593 page views Submitted By: Joe Collins on Sep 2, 2002 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Taken June, 2000

Description 

This may very well be one of the best hard finger cracks in North America. Rated anywhere between 11c to 12a in the various guidebooks I've seen, I'll post it as 11+. Even then, it feels like somewhat of a testpiece at hard-5.11.

Begin just to the left of the starts to Jerry's Kids and Avalon (just left of the pentagonal roof at mid-height in the picture below) . Scramble up to the finger crack which becomes increasingly difficult with height. A long rope stretcher pitch with the last 15 foot crux section consisting of desperate tips jamming and/or offset liebacking.

Protection 

Lots and lots of small to medium stoppers and small cams

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