Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
West Face
Show routes:
Select route...
Astro Glide 
Avalon 
Bloodguard 
Blotter is my Spotter 
Brokedown Palace 
Buster Cattlefield 
California Dreaming 
Carl's Face 
Carol's Crack 
Centennial 
Dead Point 
Deadwood Express 
Double Feature 
El Matador 
Fractal 
Harkness variation 
Heatwave 
Jerry's Kids 
La Vaca Solitaria 
Livin' the Dream 
McCarthy West Face (Variant) 
McCarthy West Face/Hong 
Mr. Clean 
One Way Sunset 
Park Politics 
Spank The Monkey 
Tulgey Wood 
Up In Smoke 
Way Layed 

Brokedown Palace 

5.12a

   

FA: Steve Hong
Type: Trad
Length: 4 pitches, Grade III
Views: 686 page views

Submitted By: Eric Sutton on Aug 18, 2002


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Description 

"Brokedown Palace" follows the line out the right side of the big pentagonal roof in the middle of the west face. The second pitch is the crux pitch and offers some of the best hard,steep corner and roof climbing on the tower,it is very well protected with small nuts and cams. The third pitch is beautiful 5.11c crack climbing. The first pitch is not stellar at all but a way to get to the next ones, and I never did the last pitch. The end of the third pitch had no fixed anchors when I climbed it.


Protection 

Small nuts to 2" cams



Add Comment Comments on Brokedown Palace
Show which comments
By Christian B. Baird
Mar 27, 2007

Wow I followed eric sutton on this
A serious lesson in smearing and style
No joke tips and lack of foot holds
but excellent small stoppers And r.p.s
shear sickness sutton, you rule