Double Feature 

FA:  Petefish et al. 1987 Type:  Trad Length:  1 pitch, 160 feet Views: 129 page views Submitted By: Paul Heyliger on Jul 16, 2003 Add Photo  Add Comment

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Description 

Double Feature begins in the first crack left of the obvious Vulture pillar/crack and two cracks right of Jerry's Kids on the West Face. This is the same start as Pee Pee's Plunge, but quickly steps left into the next crack system. Protection is good, but this route does not lace as easily as most Tower lines. The main crux comes at about 2/3 height, just above a locker nut and good rest, and involves splayed stemming and face moves that ease a bit at a bolt. Depending on the season, the crack just below the bolt can be grassy, hiding some decent HB placements. The route then angles up and left, across a superb shield of rock, passing two more bolts and one milder crux to the JK belay.

This is a high quality route that would be 3 stars anywhere else. At the Tower, there is just too much competition.

Protection 

Small-medium stoppers, RP's or HB's, TCU's, and a hand-sized cam. Tricams also work well.