An excellent route which will test all of your crack climing techniques. This route starts in a left facing dihederal on the south end of the west face just right of a tree and 2 cracks to the left of the 5.10 version of Mcarthy West Face.
The first pitch (10a) is fun and continuous with thin fingers & liebacking up the corner to a belay on top of the column on the left. Pitch 2 heads up a short corner (10a)to another ledge. These pitches could probably be combined with a 60m rope. The third pitch is the meat of the climb. Continue up the obvious crack in the left-facing corner. Although it is "easier" at 5.9 it is wide, continous, and gets more steep as you go for a long 160+ feet. From here you can do some poor climbing up chimneys to reach the summit or do two long raps on double ropes form bolts.
Mark Morehouse
Protection
Stoppers and small cams for the first and 2nd pitch. The 3rd pitch is wide and would eat up 3.5 camalots, although 3's work well in spots and you could use a #2 and the bottom of the pitch.
To further help locate this route, the left facing dihedral mentioned in the description is a LF accute corner through one stretch about 50' up. The crack starts out hands, goes to fingers, and eventually peters out to an RP seam (crux).
We only did the 1st 2 pitches. The 3rd pitch looks like an amazing fist/OW crack. Beautiful climb with great pro. Sustained and varied. Awesome! Scott Conner
By John Gunnels From: Gillette, WY Apr 8, 2006 rating: 5.10a
Make SURE of your placements on P2. The moves are deceiving...
The third pitch is not to be missed, just bring extra big cams. We didn't have enough so I had to run it out about 15 feet between some pieces and fiddle with large hexes.
I thought the third pitch was the crux of the climb: lots and lots of moves, few rests and deep, elusive, difficult jams for small hands. Keep your psych up even though it's "only" 5.9.
By Nathan Furman From: Salt Lake City, Utah Mar 29, 2008
A partner and I did this several years ago. The seasonal rangers said that the third pitch had a reputation for being the hardest 5.9 pitch in the country.
Although I think that may be overstating the case, the 3rd pitch is certainly a good workout. My partner was so exhausted mid-pitch that he decided to lower off rather than struggle/thrutch for another 45 minutes. His OW technique was probably a little underdeveloped, but, yeah, the pitch really gives you the what for.
West Face
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