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DescriptionThese are the routes you can see from the parking lot. They are all accessed by the west face approach and encompass all routes from the NE shoulder on the left to the large leaning pillar on top of the SW buttress (Durrance pillar) on the right. The routes on the West face are some of the cleanest and most accessible routes on the tower. Ultra-classics include Carol's crack, McCarthy's west face, El Matador, Tugley Wood, and many more. As with the other sides of the tower, the "good" climbing is on the lower 2/3 with easy bolted rappels before the less appealing rock. Most routes will require a two-rope descent. Getting ThereLeave the main trail shortly after the trail starts heading south parallel to the tower, at the same place the Durrance approach leaves the trail. Hike up the boulderfield to the base of the tower. Locate the obvious stem box with two five-foot wide dihedrals facing each other for 150' and a ledge at the end of the left pillar (El Matador). Most west face routes are left of here. Right of El Matador, see Durrance Approach. Sparse poison ivy is often encountered on the hike/scramble north to Carol's crack area. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for West Face:
Tulgey Wood 5.10a Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II
Fractal 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet
Jerry's Kids 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet
McCarthy West Face (Variant) 5.10b Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet
Up In Smoke 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet
Carl's Face 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet
One Way Sunset 5.10c Trad, 4 pitches, 440 feet, Grade II
Spank The Monkey 5.10d Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet
El Matador 5.10d Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet, Grade III
Mr. Clean 5.11a Trad, 3 pitches, 500 feet
Way Layed 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet
Carol's Crack 5.11a Trad, 3 pitches, 320 feet, Grade II
California Dreaming 5.11b Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet
McCarthy West Face/Hong 5.11c Trad, 2 pitches, 230 feet
Bloodguard 5.11+ Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet
Featured Route For West Face
Carol's Crack 5.11a WY : Devil's Tower : West Face
One of the finest routes we did at Devil's Tower, and it even remains open when the rest of the West Face is closed for Falcons!Approach this route via the West Face trail and skirt the left-hand edge of the trial towards to great routes, One Way Sunset and Carol's Crack. Both of these 3* routes are near the north-most edge of the West Face.I could tell you to look for a primarily right facing corner system that starts low angle and gets progress...[more] Browse More Classics in WY
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