Soler 

Pitch 2 is what makes this such a classic. The hand crack you follow up pitch one narrows to fingers and finally, about 20 feet or so from the top of the pitch, to barely accepting of your smallest pro. At this point, you finish with stemming and whatever you can find to grab in the dihedral. You're either going to find out how well you placed that last ballnut, or you're going to top out feeling really good.

One of the things I thought was really super-cool about this route was how long the pitches were without being particularly hard. Most of the climbs at DT are either broken into short pitches or are 5.11. This one is one of the few climbs with big long cruisers with good pro. It's kind of like skiing a 5000' drop blue run with no moguls on a perfect powder day- If that's your limit, it can be great fun, but no matter what grade you are at, you'll enjoy the climb!

Thats strange Tony - I can think of dozens of long pitches under 5.11 that are fun and sustained. In the 5.9 range alone, check out Walt Bailey and Assembly Line. TAD, Bon Homme Variation, El Cracko, and most of the other climbs at the tower also fit this description. The only route I can really think of with short pitches is Durrance.

At devil's tower, "short" is shorter than 100'. At least that's my yard-stick. I agree that you've named some other routes that have long pitches below 5.11. Walt Bailey Memorial is only as tall as a single pitch of Soler, however, and climbs Like Assembly Line is mostly a "Green Run" with a few blue moves. I think that those are more cruxy though and are less sustained at a particular grade, and thus not cruisers. That was in my mind when I wrote the comment, but didn't make it to paper. Admittedly, I didn't climb many of the 5.9's there.

Probably sounds idiotic, but I'm certain that I've climbed this route more than 100 times...and I'm still looking for any excuse to climb it once again !!! Its got it all; great locks, great pro and a stellar hanging belay right in the middle !!! The first free ascent of the route went to Layton Kor and Ray Jaquot in 1959. What a Plum they picked !!!!

You're quite right, Frank. If you only have time for ONE route... this is it...

A memorable climb, don't understimate the length of the first pitch, you can easily run out of gear so either bring a lot or space it out. A climb of the highest quality.

Lots of good features on the right hand side of the dihedral for the first half of the first pitch but it goes away the closer to the anchors you get and gets pumpy, no moves easier than 5.8 but none harder.

This route is stellar. An awesome dihedral with awesome finger and hand jams.

Did route in 1989 and from what I remember of it, for me the key was stemming occasionally just to rest, especially near the top of P1 and mid to near the top of P2. Per it's name, be prepared to be grilled by the sun. Very nice hanging belay vs. not much of anything on TAD.

I agree with Mr. Sanders and Mr. Gunnels, this is a climb that you must do at the Tower. I did feel that the 2nd pitch was noticeably harder than the first, maybe it had something to do with being tired from the first pitch, but if felt more technical to me. I would rate P1 at 5.8 and P2 at 5.9+. With regards to the stellar hanging belay, I think my lifelines were too short to enjoy the hanging belay much. It could have been the way my harness fits also, but the next day both my thighs were fully covered in bruises. I think a longer lifeline would have helped aleviate the situation, so just some word to the wise. Still an absolute classic, not to be missed route.