Free Association 

FA:  John Walker, Frank Sanders New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10 [details] Length:  1 pitch, 180 feet, Grade III Views: 90 page views Submitted By: john walker on Mar 24, 2004 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

This was the first free ascent of the 3rd pitch of The Devil Made Me Do It-A1. Pitch starts under large roof, climb crack with some face holds passing roof on left 5.10. climb up to foot traverse and go left to corner, climb dirty lichenous corner, sort of crumbly but good jams in the back of the crack, wear gloves. At about half way you climb over 5 meters of loose flakes, this is the psychological crux and is quite scary. As others have mentioned the top 1/3 of the tower is eroded and crumbly when compared to the lower 2/3. There is a lot of dirt, lichen and loose rock up there, it is climbable and even enjoyable but different than the sinker jams of more popular routes.

Protection 

Take a standard rack with extra hexes (I used 3 #10 hexes) or large cams, Metolius TCUs and Aliens, #1-3 Camalots, Wild Country cams up to #5. Bring the iron if you want to do the first two pitches, standard rack, angles, peckers, blades, rurps, hooks, all that shit.