El Cracko Diablo 

FA:  Rod Johnson and Pat Padden, 1973 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.8 [details] Length:  2 pitches Views: 1,789 page views Submitted By: Brad Boner on May 31, 2003 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Climbers at right are on second pitch of EL CRACKO...

Description 

See approach for TAD and Solar. This route starts to the right of TAD, and is in my opinion by far the best route of the three mentioned. Pitch one is a good lead of about 5.7 and is well suited for those getting into trad climbing on the Tower. Pitch two is longer and is very sustained 5.8 climbing. Both pitches swollow up gear and you can protect pitch 2 with as many hand-fist sized hexes and cams as you can carry. The crux will prove to be the small bulge 2/3 up on pitch 2 and the slightly narrowing crack as it tapers toward the top of the route where it ends at the Meadows. NOTE: This route can be rappelled with two ropes in two pitches, but it's recommended that you rappell in three pitches, the third being at the anchors at the ledge about 25-30 feet up from the start of the route. Rappelling in two will increase the likelyhood of having your ropes hung up on the aformentioned ledge when it is pulled.

Protection 

P1 will take medium and larger pieces, P2 has unlimited hand-fist size placements of cams and hexes

Add Photo Photos of El Cracko Diablo

BETA PHOTO: Soler, TAD, El Cracko Diablo	Seiler and Swanson on one of the rap stations comi...	BETA PHOTO: El Cracko Diablo...
Chuck near the top of P1.