North Face & Northwest Corner

Description 

The North Face of the tower is the place to be to find shade on hot summer days and is the home to some classic routes with the gem being McCarthy North Face. Most routes in this area are 2 pitches of good climbing with rap bolts, although there are a few that continue to the summit which makes for one of the longest ways to get up the tower.

The North Face / NW Shoulder approach described below will put you near the start of McCarthy's, from this point (with a little effort) you can reach routes all the way to Casper College to the east and One Way Sunset to the west. In short, head up here and you are position for a day of stellar climbing!

Getting There 

To reach the North Face form the parking lot head left on the paved trail past the west face. At it's farthest north point the trail will make a sharp right turn, just after this you will reach a bench on the opposite side of the trail. Look for a trail here that heads south east through the forest and follow it up to the rock. If you get lost in the woods look up and head for the tall rock pillar in front of you. Watch for Poison Ivy.

The Classics

Featured Route For North Face & Northwest Corner

Windex 5.6 A3  WY : Devil's Tower : North Face & Northwest Corn...

I couldn't believe this route hadn't been done. Working as a guide out there during the summer of '05, I spotted this line and climbed it on an unseasonably cool July day. This is just another classic obvious plumb line to the top. This route took about 10 hours and included lots of tricky aid placements; beaks, hooks, shallow tied-off and equalized pins, and some creativity throughout the entire first 2 pitches, and then finishes with ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WY