Mountain Project: Climbing Devil's Tower

FA:	unknown
Type:	Trad
Consensus:	5.10b [details]
Length:	2 pitches, 150 feet
Views:	2,069 page views

Submitted By: Jeff G. on Sep 1, 2003

Add Photo Add Comment

You and this route | Other Opinions (20)

Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]

Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Description

This route takes on the right side of the obvious yellow columns known collectively as the Belle Fourche Buttress. The first pitch is short and goes up the left side of a small block to a nice ledge with bolted anchors. Pitch 2 is around the corner off the right side of the ledge, and it is Spectacular! Down climb a few feet off the ledge and traverse right a foot or two until you are staring up the beautiful finger crack splitting the wall. The next 20 feet is the business! Crank the perfect finger locks until you can get a thin hand jam as the crack widens. The upper part of the pitch is steep hands at an easier grade -ENJOY. The climb ends on a nice ledge. Go to the far side of the ledge to find a bolted anchor atop "Burning Daylight".

Protection

Yellow and Orange TCUs at the crux. #.5 Camalot up to #2 Camalot for upper part of route (doubles would be plenty).

Comments on Belle Fourche Buttress

Add Comment

Show which comments —

By Just Another Anonymous User
Sep 24, 2005
rating: 5.10b

This is why we climb!!

By nolteboy
Jan 25, 2006

If you're headed to the Tower, put this one on your list of "must do" routes! So beautiful to look at on the walk up to the base, you just can't believe it's .10b!

By juancho
May 14, 2008

nolte took the words out of my mouth. I remember my friend telling me we were going to do a classic 5.10. While we were walking I looked up and saw this crack and just about shit. WHAT'S THAT?? Is it 5.11? 5.12?
I couldn't believe t when he said no that's the 5.10 we're after. It is an awesome route.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Jackson Hole, WY
Sep 16, 2008
rating: 5.10b

So good! So good! So good! From the belay this climb is super intimidating, but as soon as you commit to the crack it unfolds perfectly - a bomber jam, jug, or foot right where you need it. My favorite on the tower so far. Seemed fair for the grade, and anyone comfortable on 10b crack won't have a problem.

Nuts, set of TCUs, double set of cams from #0.5 camalot to #3 camalot. Maybe triples of #1-#3 camalot if you want to sew it up. Midway up the pitch I got a bomber green alien in a small crack to the left and was able to save a #1 for later.

By Sevve Stember
From: St. Paul, MN
Apr 5, 2009

What kind of sun exposure does this route get? Morning? Afternoon?

By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Apr 6, 2009

Re: sun exposure.

Morning, if I recall correctly.

This is a great little climb.

Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
	ADVANCED