Climbing the approach pitch to Teacher's Lounge fo...
Description
An amazingly continuous hand crack that begins from the platform reached after the steep steps on the Northeast approach, directly left of Teacher's Lounge. The route starts after the two pitches moving up and left through ledges and bushes and back right to Teacher's Lounge ledge as described in Patent Pending and the Northeast Buttress approach. The route is easily located from the Teachers Lounge above and to the left (around the corner) of the rap anchors for New Wave and Broken Tree. The line starts out a hand crack and continues that way for about 110' where it reaches a little hollow offwidth section and is 5.9 all the way. The offwidth section is much easier climbing and a good place to rest. It continues on for about 20-30' to a bulge. If you look left from there you will realize the rap anchors are hidden around the corner on the column on your left (look for a bolted hanger facing you that tells you where the anchors are around the corner and protects the move to the anchors, you can not see the anchors unless you lean way back so thank goodness someone put the bolt there because I was getting ready to try to pull the bulge above me). The line is, as a friend of mine put it, sicko good and was the best line we found on the tower at that grade by far!!!
Protection
Bring as many pieces around a #2 Friend (1.5-2.5) as you have. You can occasionally go a little bigger or a little smaller but not often. Medium hexes were way cool to have in that range also.
Judd is a friend of mine and will probably be happy to hear of the good reports, I am trying to get him climbing again. His 13yr old son and 11yr old daughter are naturals.
By Dr. Evil From: Boulder, CO Oct 6, 2007 rating: 5.9
A lovely jamming experience on the first pitch, then easier but still fun upper pitches. Watch out for the attack of the killer swarming insects (termites?) on the summit.
East and Northeast Buttress Approach
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