Matt Kline Leading up the second Pitch of Patent P...
Description
An offwidth climb that begins from the platform reached after the steep steps on the Northeast approach, directly below Teacher's Lounge. The first two pitches move up and left through ledges and bushes and back right to Teacher's Lounge ledge. A much more attractive start for the 5.10 climber is to climb either New Wave or Broken Tree, both of which take more direct and pleasing lines to the Lounge. Pitch three moves straight left to the crack that splits the first two overhangs. Move up and over the overhangs (crux) and continue on sustained off-feet for another 100', belay at bolts (160'). Continue for another pitch and scramble to the summit, or rappel back to Teacher's Lounge. One can also toprope Patent Pending from the bolts on top of pitch 3, but it is a good lead.
This route is awesome for someone to follow whos just beginning. Its a little confusing on your first lead if you dont know where to go. Other than that the route is awesome.
the OW pitch has many outside features to work with. do let it scare you off. 2 or 3 #4s will do the trick on the big end of your rack. it takes a comfortable heel-toe and there are many interior edges. the top of P2 has new bolts.
We must have missed the OW section; I do recall there being a tree inside a wide crack just before the top-out, but I did some lieback/face climbing outside the crack. We didn't place anything in that crack and it did not feel runout to me. I'm giving this two stars not because it sucks, but because there are so many stellar routes nearby, including two that access the Teacher's Lounge... Broken Tree and New Wave are definitely better routes, so if you can climb 10a you should do one of those. But at many other climbing areas, this would be a 3-star route for sure.
By Tyler V From: Woodbury, MN Sep 23, 2009 rating: 5.8
A super laid back way to get to the great views of Teacher's Lounge, or if you want to save all your strength for Assembly Line.
If you are looking for a real challenge at the Tower, this probably isn't worth your time, but for the beginner or if you are just looking to warm up and stretch the limbs out, this would be a great choice to climb.
Better have at least one #4 and a couple #3 BD cams on your sling unless you are willing to really run things out.
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