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DescriptionThis approach leads to Durrance and surrounding cracks. Durrance is the most popular route on the tower, and it is usually crowded during summer months. This area also contains the Wiessner offwidth, Best Crack in Minnesota, Rangers are People Too, Pigeon English, etc. This area is primarily on the south side of the tower, so expect hot sun through most of the day. Getting ThereTake the trail east from the parking lot and then take a right at the junction a short distance away. Soon after, start heading toward the tower across the talus, taking the path of least resistence. This is also the start for the west face approaches. As you approach the tower, scramble up onto the southeast shoulder, and then depending on the route desired, follow this trail east around the tower. Durrance is located around the tower a ways, and starts near the location of the ramp for the south and east faces. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Durrance Approach:
Durrance 5.7 Trad, 6 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II
Pseudo- Wiessner 5.8 Trad
Rangers Are People Too 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet, Grade II
Fritz's Fantasy 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 150 feet
Direct Southwest 5.11b Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II
Featured Route For Durrance Approach
Fritz's Fantasy 5.10b WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach
A great face climb up the Wiessner Column. Sustained throughout with a handful of cruxy moves and occasional rests. There are a few loose flakes to beware of. Overall it is excellent.Belay from a bolted station a ways below the column and solo up wide cracks (or bring some large pieces) to the first bolt. Resist the temptation to stem to the neighboring columns!...[more] Browse More Classics in WY
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