BETA PHOTO: Suiting up in chains for the FINAL approach - 2,10...
Description
Route just came in and touched down week of V-day. It was a bit lucently thin in spots but worth the challenge. Usually comes in mid-to-late season and quite fat. Used to be WI5 - M7 but roof has since fallen thus (trivia alert) climb sometimes referred to as 'Hostile Makeover'. Area known for high winds which will bring down the temps in this gully quite a few notches. Recommend to do on NON-WINDY day (if possible). Another great classic with the approach to match.
Location
To the left up Triptych Drainage on the north side of the Valley. Park off the road close to the Valley Ranch mailbox. Route can be rapped - 1 rope, bolts at top. Walk-off (east) possible but rap will get you to happyhour much sooner.
Protection
Short to mid-length screws -- Single pt crampons add xtra grip for early-season thin lacy-ice traction (beta c/o Aaron-ColdFear)
By Doug Shepherd From: Fort Collins, CO Feb 26, 2007 rating: WI5
Hostile Makeover refers to the bolted variation to the left of the ice flow. Hostile Takeover is the ice climb itself.
We did this climb on Feb. 18th and found nice climbing, although a bit beat up after a clinic was up there the day before.
1st pitch was WI 4+/5- the day we did it. 2nd pitch was WI 4 with manky ice at the start and plastic ice up above. Did not find a fixed anchor above the 2nd pitch, so we ended up leaving one on a tree.
This climb is definitely longer than 80 feet. The first pitch is probably 40 m from bolt to bolts and the 2nd pitch a full 60 m to the tree we used.
I believe you could get down from the bolts on top of pitch one with a single rope rappel, however a double rope rappel gets you down the easy step that much faster. Just grab your packs and rapping.
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