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South Fork Shoshone (Ice)
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The Moratorium 

WI4+

   

FA: Chad Chadwick, Bill Dockins early 1980's
Type: Ice, Alpine
Consensus: WI4+ [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II
Views: 753 page views

Submitted By: kevin fox on Jan 31, 2006


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Approaching The Moratorium.


Description 

I think the true crux to this route is the approach. Plan on anywhere from an hour (if you are an aerobic animal) to 2 hours. The Moratorium is the longest continuous flow in the area. Locals said that it doesn't form up every year. The route can be thin and unprotectable to thick smooth ice. The leader definitely needs to be aware of ice that is released.

The 1st pitch leaves the belayer really exposed to falling ice. End of the 1st pitch is a small shelf that is on the left side of the route. Great place to also set a v-thread for the rap off.

The 2nd pitch goes up a steep curtain, and after forty or fifty feet turns into a sloping ledge to an easy finish, or there is a steep curtain on the right.

For the descent you have to rappel the route. Make a V-thread at the top, if there isn't one already. When rappelling, shoot for the shelf that you set up your first hanging belay at. Aaron Mulkey's advice (which worked) was to leave the screws that you set up the anchor with at the first belay. That way, you have something to clip into. The last rappel is pretty straightforward.

This is definitely a classic not to be missed.


Protection 

Screws and sling material to make v-threads. Two 60-meter ropes. Plan on each pitch being a full rope length.



Add Photo Photos of The Moratorium
Mike at the base of Moratorium,trying to figure out where to hide from falling ice.

BETA PHOTO: Mike at the base of Moratorium,trying to figure ou...

Kevin leading 1st pitch.

Kevin leading 1st pitch.

Mike leading the 2nd pitch.

Mike leading the 2nd pitch.

Top of the second pitch...be sure to send the fat guy down first while it's backed up!!

BETA PHOTO: Top of the second pitch...be sure to send the fat ...

<a href='/u/matt_tuttle/106086437'>Clipinmt</a>, nearing the top of P1, The Moratorium. 1/6/06

Clipinmt, nearing the top of P1, The ...

<a href='/u/matt_tuttle/106086437'>Clipinmt</a> and K.Hirst simul-seconding P2 of The Moratorium.

Clipinmt and K.Hirst simul-seconding ...

<a href='/u/matt_tuttle/106086437'>matt tuttle</a> brings up Ace Welton and K. Hirst on The Moratorium, 01/06.

matt tuttle brings up Ace Welton and ...

Gentleman John Beaupre styles up the first pitch.

Gentleman John Beaupre styles up the first pitch.

The beautiful Moratorium; perhaps it is the most aesthetic piece of ice in all of the South Fork.

BETA PHOTO: The beautiful Moratorium; perhaps it is ...