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Wy'East 
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Wy'East 

YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c Mod. Snow

   
Type:  Snow, Alpine, 5000', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c [details]
FA: 
Season: Winter to Early Spring
Page Views: 2,738
Submitted By: peachy spohn on Jul 11, 2008

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From the lower part of the ridge looking toward Ti...

Description 

The Wy' East route begins at Timberline Lodge. Ascend up the climbers trail to the top of the Palmer Chair Lift and then head east, across the White River Glacier. Crevasses are present on this portion of the climb, so roping up is a good idea. When you get across, head up the moraine to reach the top of the ridge. Follow the ridgeline until you get to the outcropping of rocks at the top.
Once here, go around right and up through a chute (40 degrees). Follow this until you get back onto the ridge roughly 400 feet up. Continue on this ridge, which is the top of the Steel Cliffs (the Devils Kitchen lies at the bottom of where you regain the ridge).
Continue on this ridge, which is somewhat exposed, until you move up either a right leaning snow ramp or exposed rock. You will encounter a small downclimb that, if frozen, should be relatively straight forward.
This portion of the climb is exposed. Traverse up and right, following the base of a large rock formation. Once around, follow a chute (between 50 and 55 degrees) to the summit ridge, and then up to the summit.
If you do the route late in the season expect a lot of rock fall and rotten rock to climb. The route finding should be fairly obvious earlier in the season, but later in the season it can be tricky...just follow the path of least resistance.


Location 

Start from Timberline Lodge.
Descend the standard route.


Protection 

Pickets, Ice Axe, Extra Tool, Crampons, HELMET.



Photos of Wy'East Slideshow Add Photo
This picture shows the morraine ridge you follow, and to the right is the White River Glacier, which is crossed at the top of Palmer Chair Lift.
BETA PHOTO: This picture shows the morraine ridge you follow, ...
This shows the ridge you gain above the Devils Kitchen as you approach the Steel Cliffs.
BETA PHOTO: This shows the ridge you gain above the Devils Kit...
This is at the top of the Morraine.  Traverse up around right and into the chute.
BETA PHOTO: This is at the top of the Morraine. Traverse up a...
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