WTF  5.8

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  Brian Cabe & LeAnn Jones August 2011 New Route:  Yes Season:  dry Submitted By:  Brian in SLC on Nov 15, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

LeAnn: WTF? Yeah...

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Description 

An open chimney leads to a steep face with just enough features and protection to keep it from being too spicy.

Climb up the open slot, chimney up and step left working the nice handholds. Follow weaknesses and protection options slanting slightly left until possible to go straight up to short roof (horizontal crack for gear). Pull roof, and, build belay anchor on top.

Location 

In the middle of the East Face of BFD Rock is a large, open chimney. This route climbs the face just left of the chimney/wide groove.

Take two ropes and simul rappel to get off?

Possible to rappel from the anchor on "the Smell" but take care as its very steep, exposed and the anchor is a dubious, old ('87 vintage) washer stack).

Protection 

Standard rack. Stoppers and small cams (double set of 00 - 2 TCU's or equivalent) useful.

No fixed gear or anchor.

Photos of WTF Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: Location of WTF on BFD Rock

WTF. LeAnn all smiles near the top of BFD Rock.