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BFD Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Smell, The S 
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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Brian Cabe & LeAnn Jones August 2011
New Route: Yes
Season: dry
Page Views: 28
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Nov 15, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Location of WTF on BFD Rock


An open chimney leads to a steep face with just enough features and protection to keep it from being too spicy.

Climb up the open slot, chimney up and step left working the nice handholds. Follow weaknesses and protection options slanting slightly left until possible to go straight up to short roof (horizontal crack for gear). Pull roof, and, build belay anchor on top.


In the middle of the East Face of BFD Rock is a large, open chimney. This route climbs the face just left of the chimney/wide groove.

Take two ropes and simul rappel to get off?

Possible to rappel from the anchor on "the Smell" but take care as its very steep, exposed and the anchor is a dubious, old ('87 vintage) washer stack).


Standard rack. Stoppers and small cams (double set of 00 - 2 TCU's or equivalent) useful.

No fixed gear or anchor.

Photos of WTF Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: WTF.  LeAnn all smiles near the top of BFD Rock.
WTF. LeAnn all smiles near the top of BFD Rock.
Rock Climbing Photo: LeAnn:  WTF?  Yeah...
LeAnn: WTF? Yeah...

Comments on WTF Add Comment
Show which comments
By Drederek
Sep 17, 2014
rating: 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b PG13

60 feet of fourth class to a V0 mantle move does not make a 5.8, sorry.
By Brian in SLC
Sep 17, 2014 thought the route had a V0 move on it? I didn't find it that hard. Maybe you went the hard way... Cheers!
By Drederek
Sep 20, 2014
rating: 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b PG13

Yeah, I thought the mantle over the top was solid V0!

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