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Bell Buttress - Main Crag
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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Bruce Sposi and Dan Hare, 1979.
Page Views: 463
Submitted By: Stich on Jul 27, 2008
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Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>


Approach Bell Buttress via the tyrolean and pass the Patio area, continuing up stream no more than 15 feet above the water. Find a broken ledge and step across to a nice, shady tree. Above are two thin cracks. The left is harder and more difficult to protect. The right dials in around 5.7 and takes gear. Climb good holds and chunky rock to a ledge. Pro is scattered and may require some hunting, but the climbing is casual.

Pitch 2 (5.9) goes up directly left of Malaise. There is a right-arching flake at the bottom, which can be circumvented if you like on the right. Thin, improbable cracks with not so obvious pro lead to a hand crack above. Despite the tenuous appearance of this line, each move is static and affords plenty of time to work out pro. Higher up the crack widens a bit and you end up on a second big ledge. The methodical, thoughtful leader will find this to feel much easier than most 5.9s.

Pitch 3 - We took Wayward Puritan to the top (5.6) which requires a traverse to the right. Belay up top under a shade tree.


Standard rack with micro cams for P2.

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