Wright of Thick and Thin
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This is a nice, moderate, wide crack with a sprinkling of face and fingers.
P1: Squirm up the wide crack on the left side of the large gully. It ledges out a few times, but is interesting and fun. End on a ledge on the left, or, better, climb the face and belay on another big ledge. ~100-130 feet.
P2: Climb the short face (~10 feet) to a ledge, walk right to another wide crack, and hit the airstrip on top. ~50 feet.
P3: There are many choices, but the route standard takes the incipient crack in the back of a right-facing dihedral. You can also jump across the gully to the right to gain the rappel bolts of Arch Stanton
Wide stuff, from hands to knees. If doing P3, bring small gear as well.
By Ryan Sather
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 4, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
My buddy and I did this route in 2 pitches. Linking the final pitches was maze-like, and I am not sure how well it would have protected a fall, but it made the whole process go a lot faster. If I remember correctly, we rappelled off the opposite side down Beef Eater. I thought this was a quality OW and was surprised to find that there was little written about in on MP. I think bringing either singles up to a six or bring 2 fives if you got em'. Six protect the opening OW well while still allowing one to stack, but it can also be protected with a five. A five is nice for some of the upper OW before one reaches the belay of the first pitch. The first time I did this route I had one five that I used in the opening section and was doing some climbing above a four and nearly wanted to puke! Upon having to do it a second time to rescue a piece of fallen gear, I used a six down low and the five towards the top made this climb seem more like 5.7. This great climb to get comfortable with some heel to toe action. This is a clean and quality moderate OW. Do it!!!