Wretched in Stone  5.10a

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.10a [details] FA:  Les Phillips and Jeff Scheuerell New Route:  Yes Season:  Not summer Submitted By:  Jeff Scheuerell on Mar 18, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

For those that enjoy the wide or just want to be abused. Best done in 3 pitches. The first pitch ends on a flat ledge and has several mostly 4th class variations. The best is right up the middle avoiding the vegitation and is easy but has little protection. The second pitch follows smaller right facing corners into the giant corner and ends just before the cave, wherever you can find good pro. The last pitch is the crux, continues to the top of the giant corner and ends at two bolts before the impossible looking roof.

Location 

The giant corner right of Hayley Anna

Protection 

Big. I used singles to a #4 Camalot plus An old 5 and new 5 and 6. Knee pads might have been nice. The rap station may require new webbing.