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Wrendevous 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,143
Submitted By: tim naylor on Aug 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Joel Tinl on the headwall. Photo courtesy of And...

Description 

Best trad line in area, has only seen a few ascents. Couldn't find out who did it and what style. We took the liberty to name it. Start in chossy band below nice open book w'2" crack going up to mini roof, turn on left then trend right over stegosaurus flakes, solid and cool. Then ascend straight in finger crack with pods and good small edges for feet.

Bolted variation climbs on right face (5.11c). Finish same crack to new chain anchor.

Location 

Far left of cliff in beautiful black rock. Middle line of black section

Protection 

Full set of nuts and cams to two inches. Two bolt anchor.


Photos of Wrendevous Slideshow Add Photo
Kristin approaching the finger crack on the headwall; the best 5.11 trad-cragging pitch in the Southwest? It's gotta be one of them.
Kristin approaching the finger crack on the headwa...
Original Anchor.  New sport anchor below.  Any idea who placed these?  Look 1980s <br /> <br />Image courtesy of <a href='http://andrewburr.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >andrewburr.com</a>.  All rights reserved.
Original Anchor. New sport anchor below. Any ide...

Comments on Wrendevous Add Comment
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By Mike Howard
Administrator
Nov 7, 2008

"the best 5.11 trad-cragging pitch in the Southwest? It's gotta be one of them."
Matt Samet: editor in chief, Climbing Magazine
By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Mar 23, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Super fun! We did the bolted variation to the start, which looked cleaner/more aesthetic than the original version. In fact, when I climbed it, I assumed that the "bolted variation" was the standard way to go! I guess it doesn't really matter too much, since both ways get you to the awesome splitter on the upper headwall. I'm not sure which start is harder, though I felt the bolted start was a touch harder than the crack climbing above.

A generous rack suggestion would be a set of stoppers, double cams from 0 TCU/C3 to .5 C4, and one .75 (you will need a hand-sized piece or two if you do the left start). A solid 5.11- leader would be fine with a single rack.