Wrendevous 

"the best 5.11 trad-cragging pitch in the Southwest? It's gotta be one of them."
Matt Samet: editor in chief, Climbing Magazine

Super fun! We did the bolted variation to the start, which looked cleaner/more aesthetic than the original version. In fact, when I climbed it, I assumed that the "bolted variation" was the standard way to go! I guess it doesn't really matter too much, since both ways get you to the awesome splitter on the upper headwall. I'm not sure which start is harder, though I felt the bolted start was a touch harder than the crack climbing above.

A generous rack suggestion would be a set of stoppers, double cams from 0 TCU/C3 to .5 C4, and one .75 (you will need a hand-sized piece or two if you do the left start). A solid 5.11- leader would be fine with a single rack.

This is a pretty good climb, perhaps the best trad climb at Vista Verde. However, considering the hype I'd heard, I was mildly disappointed. While the splitter upper finger crack is really awesome, it's only about 20' long, there's a pretty big rest stance half way up the climb before you get to it; and the bolted variation, though a fun and more direct way to go, is overbolted with the first and last bolts being close to cam placements. I think that the best cracks at White Rock, Diablo, and the Cochiti area are just as good.