Wrectum Wrecker  5.12c

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Type:  Trad, 70 feet Consensus:  5.12c [details] FA:  Rob Robinson, Forest Gardner 1985 Submitted By:  American Dankster on Nov 21, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Climb 5.6 for 35ft to a bolt just below the (black streaked) orange overhang. You can place a finger size cam in the pocket below the bolt and not even use the bolt

Boulder out and through the white triangle in the roof. Turn it up a notch and pull into one of the coolest huecos around. (nicknamed the toilet bowl). Clip the bolt (the only one needed).

Pull out of the hueco and continue straight and right, up a head wall. A few hard moves lead to a crack in a small roof. Pull over this and head right to bolted anchor.

An obvious contender for best hueco at T Wall.

Location 

The Wasteland. To The Right of Talon And Left of Circus Circus/Two Clowns on a Rope.

There is a 5.12 Variation called Spinal Wrecker that goes left after you crawl into the bowl. I recommend not clipping that bolt over your head and far left if your doing Wrectum Wrecker. Run it!

Protection 

Small nuts
TCUs/C3s
Quickdraws (One bolt, hmm or two)
#2
(Optional .5-1)
Tape Gloves are nice.