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BETA PHOTO: The line of Wrath. I'd love to get someone to repe...
This new pitch is located on the upper tier of the large expanse of rock separating the route Gollum's Arch on the left side of the cliff and Latch Hand
on the far right side of the wall. Walk past Seam-stress
and Gollum's Arch
along the base of the wall, boulder up into a hanging gully beneath an overhanging, rotten section of the cliff, and scramble up to the gully's highpoint. (Latch Hand
is just down to the right at this point). From this high point in the gully, climb a 4th class ledge system / ramp straight out left to a big, perched ledge at the base of the route. You'll want a blue camalot and a blue TCU for an anchor here.
This is a rowdy little pitch with a vicious crux section. The line of the pitch forms a perfect 7 (more visible from the approach gully). Climb the obvious, right-leaning seam in the headwall for 30' to where it meets a left-angling dike system. Follow the dike out left for 15' to a small, left-facing corner, then pull straight up onto the slab and a slung flake anchor. The gear between the bolt and the left-angling dike is small, very strenuous to place, and crucial to keep the climbing safe.
If anyone cares: I originally established the pitch aid-solo at something like 5.9 C2 (I'm not an aid climber). After some toproping, and determining its freeclimbability, I re-aided the pitch and placed the bolt on lead.
This is the latest addition to (and possibly the hardest in) a sick circuit of seams in this vicinity. Also check out Two In The Pink
(11+) and Hagakure
(12a) on the Hens and Chickens; and Seamstress (11d) and Latch Hand
(11c) on Gollum's.
To belay on the ledge beneath the pitch you'll need a blue Camalot. For the route you'll need RPs, HB Offsets, small stoppers, and cams up to 1". 1 bolt keeps it safe.