This route starts in front of the overhang that is a little lower than chest height. There are nice starting hand holds for climbers of most heights however the first foot hold, although it's nice, is high which adds to the difficulty of the start. I saw many beginners borrowing the start of the neighbouring route 'In The Grove' located to the right but this may effect the grade.
This route is located on the section of of Otter cliffs called 'Wonderwall' in the guide book.
Fixed Anchors are perfect for top roping this route
|By Kevin Heckeler|
From: Upstate New York
Aug 22, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Lapped this and the 5.6 route more up the middle. Definitely my favorite section of wall at Otter Cliffs. You cqan go a few feet in either direction and go from 5.6 to 5.8. If the 5.8 is too stiff, step back right/left to the 5.6-ish stuff and proceed from there. Many lines on the wall! The older pocket guide we have states the wall is 5.6 - 5.8, and before I even read that it was what I thought too. Definitely a MUST CLIMB at Otter Cliffs. Face climbing fun.
From: Hooksett, New Hampshire
Oct 2, 2013
It's hard to imagine anyone doing these Wonderwall routes the same way. Holds and cracks galore! I think you could easily make this wall go at 5.5-5.6 and it would be great for beginners. Climbing the left side and the right side off one anchor made for a very good warmup. There is a staple directly above - one of the easiest anchors there to build!