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Wounded Knee 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 3,008
Submitted By: Tony B on Mar 24, 2001

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C. Treiber on Wounded Knee

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


Just to the Right of Coyne Crack Simulator, there is a set of right-leaning cracks that starts at the ground, and become a more singular crack that moves to the right at a wide spot (crux, protected by a #4 or 4.5 camalot). Run up the bottom, place good gear with a long sling in the wide spot, then OW-grovel or Power-layback a few moves around the wide flake, up and right, before coming to rest in the handcrack. Shoot for the top on 10- moves from there.

This climb is about 90' long. Using a single 60 Meter rope was no problem, but I am not so sure about a 50M.


A good rack of cams 1.5-4" with at least one #4 camalot. The crux is protected by a 4 or 4.5 camalot.

Photos of Wounded Knee Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tight hands on Wounded Knee. 4/2012.  Photo: Domin...
Tight hands on Wounded Knee. 4/2012. Photo: Domin...
Rock Climbing Photo: French girl
French girl
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Trudeau 11.9.08
Chris Trudeau 11.9.08
Rock Climbing Photo: Loving the thin hands start
Loving the thin hands start
Rock Climbing Photo: Joseffa Meir Follows 'Wounded Knee' at Pistol Whip...
Joseffa Meir Follows 'Wounded Knee' at Pistol Whip...
Rock Climbing Photo: Wounded Knee. 4/2012  Photo: Dominic Tracey
Wounded Knee. 4/2012 Photo: Dominic Tracey
Rock Climbing Photo: Lance on Wounded Knee
Lance on Wounded Knee
Rock Climbing Photo: Megan crusing up Woundeed Knee.
BETA PHOTO: Megan crusing up Woundeed Knee.
Rock Climbing Photo: C. Treiber lowering off
C. Treiber lowering off
Rock Climbing Photo: Ginger tying in for Wounded Knee, Indian Creek
Ginger tying in for Wounded Knee, Indian Creek
Rock Climbing Photo: Splitter thin hands start, Wounded Knee, Indian Cr...
Splitter thin hands start, Wounded Knee, Indian Cr...
Rock Climbing Photo: Crisp April afternoon climbing
Crisp April afternoon climbing
Rock Climbing Photo: Wounded Knee, Indian Creek
Wounded Knee, Indian Creek
Rock Climbing Photo: October Sunset on Wounded Knee
October Sunset on Wounded Knee

Comments on Wounded Knee Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 16, 2015
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 29, 2002

Different Strokes for different Folks. I posted the consensus grade. I personally felt that it was 10+/11- for the awkward move by the wide spot. It depends what you compare it to. For me and Joseffa, it was a lot harder than Speghetti Western, which is supposedly 5.11d!!!

My partner, who on-sights 5.11 (a *_lot_* of 11's at I.C.) had a hell of a hard time even following this route, falling several times. So who's to say?
By Joe Collins
May 1, 2002

This route is at most mid-5.10...much easier than Spaghetti Western which feels 11minus-ish to me
By Josh Beck
May 13, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This is the most overrated route (difficulty, not quality) I've found in the creek yet. Definitely fun. Definitely only 5.10. For me about the same difficulty as IHC and actually easier than Supercrack (I have slightly smaller hands but not tiny). Very fun with a very bizarre but cool move up high in a kinda wide flaky section.

Tempted to call it 10b...
By Kirk Woerner
Sep 10, 2003

This route is easy depending on your wingspan. If you're short, you can't go as high using the crack on the left and it's harder. I am 6'2'', and I have sent an 11a :)
By Scott W
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 17, 2008
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

More varied than most Indian Creek routes.
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 21, 2008

I really liked this route. Strenuous climbing up the .75 / tight #1 crack to the ledge then a hard mantle and reach to establish in the upper crack. The gear isn't straight forward. You either pull the mantle 5 feet above the slung chockstone or figure out how to place gear somewhere. Quality route!

By James Aikman
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 27, 2009

after sending this route today i came home to find that i had not only cut a hole in my pants, but also left a big gobi on my knee.....wounded indeed! great climb!
By Brian Scoggins
From: Laramie, WY
Apr 13, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

The "5.11" move is casual if you know how to climb offwidths. Seriously. Felt like 5.9. For me, the hard part was the tight-hands section to get to it. I'm terrible at that size.

Don't look beyond if you don't want the ultra-secret beta:

Kneejam and look right. Jesus people. You can see it from the ground.
By Travis Hibbard
Oct 18, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Felt easier than 10+ to me,

thin hands to a ledge, a wide section to a ledge, wide hands to a ledge. Really fun route in my opinion, I liked the fact that it wasn't a plug and chug route, made you think.
By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
Oct 15, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Guide book did not call for any #4 C4 so when I got to the crux I had to retreat because I was to scared to pull it without protection. Went back and got the crux easy after plugging in a protection piece
By David Meyer
From: Out Yonder West
Mar 16, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Toe hook is definitely the beta to get past the initial thin hands.

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