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 ADVANCED
Worthwhile Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ernie Pyle T 
Holden Hands T 
Holden On T 
Overlooked T 
Pile it Higher and Deeper T 
Return of the Mimmster T 
Worthless Bile T 
Worthwhile Pile T 

Worthwhile Pile 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Todd Gordon and Alan Roberts, 1/88
Season: fall, winter, spring
Page Views: 523
Submitted By: Steve Powell on Feb 18, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Description 

The crux is a thin section about halfway, and the rock is good.

Location 

This route is a left-curving crack on the right side of the face. Descend by walking off the back.

Protection 

pro to 2"


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By DaveGustafson
From: Palm Desert, CA
Apr 19, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Reluctant to even go to this area today, but after this route... it was WELL worth it. I LOVED this route - some of the best moves and well protected routes at this grade. While most might suggest that my evaluation of his route is a bit generous, I feel that "Great" is an accurate assessment (certainly over "ok"). Anyways, we had a great time in the area - while the rest of the world was on DQ Wall, we were all alone!
Do yourself a favor throughout this area... even though some suggest pro to 2 inches, listen to your gut after scoping out the routes from the ground and grab some pieces in the 3-4" range! I was thankful... I'd also suggest adequate webbing/cordage to set up a rap station for a quick escape and start to the other fine routes on this wall.
By 72HW
Oct 20, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I absolutely agree that this route deserves a Great rating - a ton of fun the whole way up. Climbing for me is about the movement and this one had it in spades. Not hard, not scary, just fun!

The thin section can be bypassed on juggy flakes to the left - this would be a great first lead IMHO.

As for the rap station - there is a bunch of tat with a ring atop Holden On, but it should be replaced soon.
By Grace C
From: Claremont, CA
Feb 22, 2010

I definitely agree with the other two- really a fun route! You've got to think a lot, but once you figure it out, the actual moves are super solid. So mentally strenuous but not at all physically intimidating...and great gear to boot.
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Apr 15, 2010

I decided to take some friends out this way to check it out after reading all the positive comments on here. It may be an ok place if you're looking for solitude and some mediocre short moderates, but there's heaps of such places at Jtree. Best thing I could say about this pile is that there was a little stream running at the base that kept the beers cold.
By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Apr 15, 2010

Ryan Kelly has it correct;...it's a pile....(I tried to tell you earlier;...but you wouldn't listen....)....
By Randy
Apr 15, 2010

Not sure about all the praise heaped on this route. Perhaps expectations have been lowered. Mediocre at best. 1 of 5 stars.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 15, 2010

How does this compare with classics like Boulder Crack????
By Adam Kimmerly
May 10, 2011

A decent line if you're already there, but nothing spectacular. Lots of ants...