Worst advice given or heard

Just for fun, what is the worst climbing advice you have overheard or given to someone. For instance I heard someone the other day tell their friend to only climb on their heels because they are stronger than toes.

just grab the hold and do a pull-up!

You don't have to get me anything for my birthday honey, really.

"You really need to get a daisy chain" (for free climbing).

Need help deciding on the best belay device? Just ask the folks on Mountain Project...

Don't mark the houlds!

How else am I supposed to know which ones are lose?

Jake Jones wrote:Just take a nap. You don't need to learn English at the 3rd grade level.

Good one.

No need to bring a headlamp. We should be back before it gets dark.

What the climber said: "Lower me"

What belayer thought he said while jerking around with his friends at the base "On repell"

jaypg wrote:No need to bring a headlamp. We should be back before it gets dark.

This is real life

I'll get some disagreements on this one. But "keep your arms straight" is about the easiest way to plateau at V3 that I know of, and I hear people giving this advice all the time. There is a time and a place for that type of technique, but even then you should have a tiny bend in your elbows.

I think what people are trying to achieve is to get beginners to use their hips, and to stop over gripping. But if that's the case, why not teach them how to turn and relax instead of just saying "keep your arms straight."

Never forget to smile

Never forget to smile

"Maybe you shouldn't climb so much."

Ryan Williams wrote:I'll get some disagreements on this one. But "keep your arms straight" is about the easiest way to plateau at V3 that I know of, and I hear people giving this advice all the time. There is a time and a place for that type of technique, but even then you should have a tiny bend in your elbows. I think what people are trying to achieve is to get beginners to use their hips, and to stop over gripping. But if that's the case, why not teach them how to turn and relax instead of just saying "keep your arms straight."

I think it applies more to route climbing / endurance than bouldering, although to absolute beginners even a short V1 problem can have an endurance-y feel!

Interesting though -- I admit that I often give this advice to beginners, with the rationale that it takes load off of your muscles (i.e., they're not contracted as much) and shifts it more onto your bones. The reason it matters more for endurance is that having your arms bent more than necessary could contribute to a cumulative fatigue that isn't necessarily noticeable on any single move.

However, I think a lot of advice given to beginners is only valid to a point, and can wind up impeding progress if it's strictly followed (i.e., don't cut your feet). IMO this doesn't make it bad advice, it just highlights that advice needs to take into account the individual's abilities and objectives.

Back on topic -- truly bad advice (to a climber interested in training for bouldering and bouldery sport climbing): "Definitely do a lot of weighted pull ups"

"You shouldn't worry about who you let belay you, they're probably just fine and you're worrying too much."

The things you can find on a climbing blog's submitted questions these days...

Spread your legs and trust the rubber.

Wait, that's good advice.

Go with Omega Pacific

"When in doubt, run it out."

When in doubt, run it out is probably the only advice I ever give. Im reminded of David Attenborough narrating a nature flick when he says "fortune favors the bold". I stand by my advice.

Alex Washburne wrote:"When in doubt, run it out."

Great advice actually, unless you're a fan of sewing it up like an aid climb. Make 1 more move and their might be a killer jug to place a piece off of instead of a dodgy whatever you have where you're at.

I say the same thing skiing all the time. "When in doubt, point it out"