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Cactus Cliff
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You Show Me Your Heavy Weapon, I'll Show You Mine 

World Peace 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson
Page Views: 734
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Mar 13, 2010
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World Peace ascends the line of brown hangers left...

Description 

Listed at 12b/c in the Sharpend guide, this line is far easier. Considering the FFA was done on gear, with a huge runout through the crux, perhaps the inflated grade is understandable. In any case, this is a high quality line with great stone and some nice pockets.

Begin with an easy scramble to a nice slab. Cruise the slab to the break, where the angle steepens. Follow the dihedral to another break, and a monolithic wall of dark stone. Sharper pockets and crimps surmount the imposing headwall.

EDIT: Note that the grade of this route was originally reported as 12a, under the name "Mark & Mark Route", and was published in Van Horn's 1999 guide as "11d or 12a".


Location 

It is at the far left end of Cactus, ascending the middle of three bolt lines on the inset panel right of the "Jumpin' the Gun" arete.


Protection 

Brown Fixe bolts to 2BA.



Photos of World Peace Slideshow Add Photo
"Mike" just below the business on World Peace.
"Mike" just below the business on World Peace.
Ben with impeccable belay technique. <br /> <br />Photo: Travis M.
Ben with impeccable belay technique.

Photo: Travi...
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By slim
Administrator
Apr 29, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Excellent route with fun climbing. Cool crux bulge where the main difficulty is narrowing down the options. I'm surprised the loose flake is still there, in the lower section. Kind of spooky and hard to avoid.