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This is another fantastic Tan Buttress 5.10. The fourth pitch in particular is a gorgeous, exposed finger and hand crack. On the first ascent, Max and I kept on commenting on the extent to which the climbing throughout did not suck.
1) Follow vertical cracks to the roof on the first pitch of Dog Fight, climb through the roof and follow Dog Fight up to a belay on the top of Tan Buttress Spire. 5.10-, 140 feet.
2) From Tan Buttress Spire, take the left-angling flake system out left to the large, left-facing corner to the left of the second pitch of Dog Fight. Follow the corner, underclinging flakes out left and then climbing back into the corner proper and follow the corner to its top. Be careful with rope drag. It may stop you short. 5.10+, 130 feet.
3) Follow wide cracks up broken ground up and left to the base of a prominent, left-angling crack system. 5.8, 100 feet.
4) Follow the crack system until it becomes a gorgeous hand and finger crack in a shallow left face corner/flake system. Follow this and belay just before it ends at a decent stance. 5.10, 130 feet.
5) Climb up the flake system until it ends on a ledge, step right into a squeeze chimney, climb it, and follow easier terrain until 3rd and 4th class terrain is encountered.
A short scramble will put you on the summit.
Start at the same point as Damn, it Feels Good to be a Hamsta, 30 feet or so left of the start of Dog Fight and directly below the roof on the first pitch of Dog Fight.
Nuts and cams to #4 Camalot.
Another view of the route. It is the red one.
The start of pitch 4. The higher you get, the bett...
Starting the first pitch.
Just past the crux on the second pitch.
|Comments on Work-Life Balance
|By doug haller|
Jul 22, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R
Climbed this yesterday:
P1: locating the start for most Tan Buttress routes remains a challenge. Look for the flakes on P2 from the base of Lazy Sunday/Anniversary Route.... For this route, select a line that will put you on the left side of the pedestal - a large block with greenery , on the left, at the base of an OW. P1 tops out on the block/pedestal.
P2: seriously consider breaking this pitch into two shorter ones. Add a belay above the flakes and before the corner. Rope management/drag is an issue. Details - first, know that I am neither tall nor particularly gifted, getting off the pedestal requires some walking on grass with a long reach, slippery when wet. Getting into the undercling was awkward or I was having a bad day. Gear above the first flake is sparse. Flake #2 is wafer thin - think Wheat Thin (Yosemite). The final corner is slightly overhanging and damp, gear is fair. Step right at the top to gain a ledge. Run it out 30 feet +/- (5.8) to a pair of cracks for a comfortable belay.
P3: mind the thistle mantle.
P4: a selection of cracks and fins consolidates/pinches down to a flake with large chickenheads. Gear size and options varies throughout, so save some pieces of 0.5-1.5 for the upper flake.
P5: rather than straight up, we followed blocky steps to a grassy ledge system up and right.