|Five Open Books
This is the nicely featured arete just to the right of Commitment. Well protected, and all of the bolts are good. The route offers fun climbing on good edges and is exposed right from the start. It shares the same bolted anchor as P1 of Commitment. Rappel with one 70m rope.
Bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap.
|By Bryan G|
From: San Jose
Nov 4, 2012
From the top of this climb it is also possible to continue up on either Commitment (5.9) or Deaf, Dumb, and Blind (10a R). We did the first pitch of D,D,&B with the intention of going to the top, but bailed at the start of pitch 2.
For pitch 1 of Deaf, Dumb, and Blind:
Traverse out right to a bolt and then climb up to a second bolt. From here work up and right aiming for the sole tree in the middle of the face. Above the tree is a finger crack which leads up to hummocks. Traverse right again to reach another bolted anchor. This pitch is about 5.8 and not too scary. The bolts and anchor are all good.
The second pitch traverses right along a dike to an old 1/4" bolt with a broken hanger. From here an incredibly thin seam heads straight up into a small roof. You can place a nut and then a small cam. Neither are good. The crux I believe is the thin face leading up to the roof, and if you blow it there's a good chance you'll rip the gear and go sailing back down onto the anchor. I chose to return to the anchor by a less speedy means: down-climbing.
With one 70m rope it is possible to rap from the top of P1 back down to the top of Work Around the Skirt/Commitment p1, and then from there you can rap to the ground.