Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Woodchuck Ledge

Select Area...
Caterpillar Wall, The 
Diamond Wall, The 
Gravity Wall, The 
Jurassic Wall, The 
Main Cliff, The 
Playground, The 
Upper Tier, The 
Zonkers Wall, The 

Woodchuck Ledge Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 6,893
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: nhclimber on Apr 27, 2009
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Know the location? Show us! We need it for cool new features!

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Awesome cliff with climbs of all grades. South facing and you'll probrably be alone. Screaming Yellow Zonkers is here, that alone should make it a destination.

Getting There 

From Conway, drive Passaconaway road (west, towards the Albany covered bridge) till you see the cliff on the right. Drive around the bend till you see a pull off on right with 3 stones guarding the trail and a Forest Service "No camping..." sign. Hike up the old logging trail about 20 minutes and you will reach the far left side of the cliff.

Coming from the Kanc, the pull-off is about 2.6 miles down Passaconaway Rd. from the Albany Covered Bridge, on your left.

Work your way right for the various walls in order: Gravity, Jurassic, Zonkers (left up a gully a little from the Caterpillar), Caterpillar, The Diamond, and the Main Wall. The Playground is reached by taking the gully past Zonkers and continuing to scramble up and left a few minutes. The upper Tier is the left side of the Main Wall, above the Caterpillar and Diamond.

Climbing Season

For the WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) area.

Weather station 6.5 miles from here

21 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Woodchuck Ledge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Woodchuck Ledge:
Roger's Spire   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   The Caterpillar Wall
Ace of Spades   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   The Zonkers Wall
Screaming Yellow Zonkers Crack   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   The Zonkers Wall
Steamroller   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   The Caterpillar Wall
Zonked Out   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad   The Zonkers Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Woodchuck Ledge

Featured Route For Woodchuck Ledge
Rock Climbing Photo: Pretty cool looking...

Steamroller 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  NH : WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) : ... : The Caterpillar Wall
Classic! Undercling and Jam up an overhanging and strenuous left arching crack to an exciting move into a left facing corner's above the head single pad undercling and a side pull chicken wing "rest" before moving left again to more pumpy moves and a stopper crux using a few potential sets of beta to a piton and a heroic rock over mantle and a bolt anchor. Pitch two is dirty but angles left on the Bucket Loader finger crack to the trees. Step right to a piton and clip the lichen as protection up...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Woodchuck Ledge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: John Howard on Firebird 5.7, a route at Woodchuck ...
BETA PHOTO: John Howard on Firebird 5.7, a route at Woodchuck ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The pull-off parking for Woodchuck
The pull-off parking for Woodchuck
Rock Climbing Photo: Parking and trail into Woodchuck
BETA PHOTO: Parking and trail into Woodchuck

Comments on Woodchuck Ledge Add Comment
Show which comments
By matthew ritter
From: West Campton, New Hampshire
Apr 15, 2010
The parking is on the left 2.5 miles east of the Albany Covered Bridge. Coming from the other way on Passaconway Rd. the pullout is half a mile past the camping area. Park at a sign saying "Camping and fires prohibited along this road, except at capmsites," on one side, and "For a healthy environment, keep our forest green," on the other. Follow the old logging road, eventually you will see a cairn and red have arrived!
By M Sprague
From: New England
Sep 1, 2011
This is a crag that could really use a good map showing the various walls and approaches. It is a fairly complicated cliff.

I've only visited this cliff once to date, but liked it. The jumbled boulder scree field below seemed like a mini version of Cannon's (much smaller, not heinous), which gave it a little alpine feeling. There was also more rock than I expected. My impression was of a good crag in a great setting. It looked to me like most of the cliff could use some TLC, upgrading old anchors and some scrubbing, but worthy of it. Be prepared for old school protection and loose rock on some of the routes. It looked to me like plenty of potential for new routing if you are in to that and willing do the work.
By matthew ritter
From: West Campton, New Hampshire
Sep 7, 2011
I agree Mark. There is a lot of climbing here. With some TLC you could spend the day at Woodchuck and crush all or many of the routes for a really rad circuit.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 7, 2011
You guys should try Steamroller- way good
By M Sprague
From: New England
Oct 14, 2012
I broke this cliff into areas and sorted the routes. If anyone feels up to writing good descriptions and directions to some or all of the walls, please let me know and I can turn them over to you. Otherwise I will work on them slowly as I get to know them better.
By wonderwoman
Jun 16, 2014
Main Cliff is closed due to falcon nesting through 8/1/14. There appears to be a falcon nest on the ledge of Diamond Edge.
By Russ Keane
Oct 23, 2015
This place is really great. It's a fun outing, with lots of climbs. The area at the top of the mountain is way cool, with climber cairns leading the way to a firepit lookout and all sorts of downlo camping spots. So gorgeous and remote.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!