Wonky 5.10+
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Greg Hand & Kent Lugbil 11/05/2007 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Greg Hand on Nov 5, 2007 |
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Description It is like a wonk, only harder.
Start at the 2nd pitch of Like a Wonk.
Follow it until the first bolt is reached, then traverse right to the arete (crux) clipping 2 bolts. Continue to the anchors of Like a Wonk.
Location Variation of the 2nd pitch of Like a Wonk.
Protection 0.75 Camalot, green Alien, 4 bolts.
By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Nov 10, 2007
| Ron,
It did seem hard, but I never know how to rate things.
After clipping the big (1/2")bolt, you can reach (blindly) around the right arete for a crimp. Then get the left on a crimp. Then move the feet and reach the right hand to the top of the flake. Then match the left just below it and reach right into the corner, then right up to a good horizontal. Your body gets around the right side of the arete, but you are not that far from the bolt. |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 28, 2010
rating: 5.10d
| I didn't find the crimp to the right the first time and pinched the arete from the left side then slapped for the opposition side-pull. This is very insecure and the feet are crap- the next handholds WORSE. Probably 5.12.
Looked down from the next bolt on the easier part and saw the holds to the right. Rapped and lead it again using this- more like 10d. I've been inclined to downgrade a lot of the routes here, but this one holds 10d. |
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