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Northwest Recess
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Wong Climb T 

Wong Climb 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tom Higgins, D. Molner and R. Coats, 1963
Season: late spring to early fall
Page Views: 3,629
Submitted By: Dpurf on Feb 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (56)
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Tamara running through the Wong Climbs money p1.

Description 

At the far right side of the Northwest Recess are 2 parallel cracks that merge 200 feet up. The left is the Wong climb and is a good direct start to the Long climb. Climb the left crack up 150 feet to a 2 bolt anchor. the 2 pitch move over to the right crack, take that up and join the Long Climb. Take the Long Climb to the top. This 2nd pitch is not popular and involes a strenuous sqeeze chimney with some loose chockstones


Protection 

pro up to 4 inches



Photos of Wong Climb Slideshow Add Photo
looking down the wong climb, with my trusty silent partner.
looking down the wong climb, with my trusty silent...
Comments on Wong Climb Add Comment
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By Roger Linfield
Feb 24, 2006

The second pitch is well-protected with gear up to 4 inches.

By shad O'Neel
May 28, 2007

The first pitch is really good, and I thought not hard for 5.8. THen finish with Long climb for a great outing. Some bigger pieces are nice to have along on the route, 3 & 3.5 or 4.

The mummy actually protects well with smaller gear.

By Carl A
From: brooklyn, ny
Dec 9, 2008

The first pitch is incredible, great jams, couple little buldges, best 5.8 i've been on. 150' rap if you're lazy but you should really finish up the long climb. You can also TR the 5.10 slab to it's left.

By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Dec 12, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Best 5.8? really?...

By Carl A
From: brooklyn, ny
Sep 30, 2010

Ya man, It was one of my first ones so memory's a bit rosy, but as a single pitch I love this guy. The rest of the climb makes it classic at the grade for sure. Plus it's at Taquitz so it's all historic! BAM!

I just went back and climbed it again, It's still just as good.

By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 6, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

If you are in Southern California, check out WPOD for a great 5.8 route

By Murf
Oct 6, 2011

ccmski - If you are in Southern California, check out WPOD for a great 5.8 route

I'm assuming you're talking about White Punks on Dope, which is a very different proposition than a Wong/Long combo of any type. Given that WPOD and this are barely related (especially since it's not a 5.8 and hundreds of miles away), I'll assume that you've recently enjoyed doing WPOD and are giving us a sly hint to that fact. Glad you enjoyed it, and feel free to crow about it all you want on the comments for that route.

By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 7, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Well Murph, since you are assuming, you know what that means. My comments were related to the fact that the 1st pitch was regarded as the best 5.8 ever (see comments above), not to the fact that I have climbed the route. WPOD was and is rated 5.8 by the first ascensionists. Just suggesting another great 5.8 route and certainly not "crowing" about it. I'm sorry that my comments struck you in the wrong way.

By Adam Burch
From: San Dieger
Jan 21, 2014

Climbed this on Jan 20th - 1st pitch to the Long finish. Fun 5.8 pitch - seemed easier than the 2nd pitch on Coffin Nail for me.

Reading some of these comments on climbing websites reminds makes me laugh.

CLIMBING IS SERIOUS BIZ