Wonderland is divided in half by a deep recessed basalt dike. Below it is the low angled gully. The dike and the adjacent right east wall are ice routes. There is the dry tool and hand climbing for thirty plus feet of rock to approach the gully. The gully drains the water away before the rock bottom. The climbing is as special to anywhere in New Hampshire in the narrow twisting Wendell's Dike. The iced wall right is very exposed and must come in some winters. I have not seen anywhere more to ice climb in Wonderland. Highest east wall below the Crow's Nest Trail does get a thirty foot plus ramp to a short head wall of ice bulged curtains. There is a totally devoid of snow, seat and walkway under an overhang at the start to the rock wall approach pitch. That's nice.
Head up towards the Hinderlands and after the fixed rope gully and the trail clears of going through rocks, Above direct is the beginning of the dike's entrance wall. The the rock climb Wrong Crack will be east of the start. Depending on snow depth is the approach direct or a traverse from higher up off the trail.
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Wendall's Dike WI4 M3 R Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 140 feet
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Wendall's Dike WI4 M3 R NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : ... : Wonderland
I believe this is an old route that didn't find its way into a guide book yet. So, that is why it is a recorded ascent. Climb the rock wall at (M2-3 R) to the dirt ramp and belay at oak tree passed the large pine tree on the right (I should make the first pitch protection more reasonable by next winter). Go up easy gully that is bolted. Mostly rock in thin condition to the bolted (M2) head wall left or stay in the gully to the chimney. Ascend the chimney of the dike (we had much trouble due to w...[more] Browse More Classics in NH