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Wonderland

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bad Sneakers T 
Beat the Heat T 
Chesire Cat S 
Fixing a hole T 
Guillotine 
Magnum Opus T 
Rocket Science  S 
Senior Citizen Route T 
So Alone S 
Wendall's Dike  T 
White Rabbit  T 
White Tuxedo T 
Wrong Turn T,TR 

Wonderland  


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Page Views: 3,437
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: bradley white on Apr 5, 2010
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Description 

It's weird that at Rumney there is a crag that hasn't seen much traffic, and it is 150+ in height without the lower ledges of broken rock grooves to trees and dangerous steep dirt slopes included.
The middle of the crag is high mica content and some dangerous finned rock protrusions similar to the Hinderland's crag's content. These mica rock fins were once in middle of the route 'Jolt'. The dangerous fins were taken out and dropped below.
The upper part of Wonderland is lichen covered with better or usual Rattlesnake rock quality directly up and west. There is a long white Quartz extrusion here on the east side. East to this Quartz extrusion is a 40ft high dike. The opposite wall of the dike is a very steep bulging lichen free section 50ft high. The dike and this wall begin below at a protrusion of rock with pine trees above that. The big fire lit the crag's upper east side a little. Couldn't see any of the western upper side of this crag.
Not a place for everyone or for that matter anyone yet unless you are experienced in this kind of climbing at Rattlesnake. It's Wonderland it's an adventure. The hiking trail is directly below this crag. I listed it as Alpine because of the lichen covered sections, the soft mica quality rock in some places and the inability to loose control of any loose rocks.

Getting There 

Hike towards the Hinderland's. The crag begins at the hand crack called Wrong Crack. Above that is a gully and left of the gully a steep ramp wall. Left of that is a large protrusion of rock and above that a wall that looks more like stacked boulders. 'Giant Man' buttress is above this area or left of it on the highest hillside section of Wonderland. This is where there used to be ladder to go down onto a ramp ledge with a eye bolt and trees. The climb 'Rocket Science is here. Nothing has been replaced to assist entry to this side yet.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.0 miles from here

13 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',6]
['<=5.6',8],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Wonderland:
Rocket Science    5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Classics in Wonderland

Featured Route For Wonderland
Nearly at the rock finish to Beat the Heat. Photographer Taylor Davis

Beat the Heat 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a  NH : Rumney : Wonderland
Crux is getting on the climb. After that the climb goes up on big foot holds and small hand holds through the center of the wall (5.4-5) until you can move up and right onto some dirt steps for 15ft., with an occasional rock smear between the grasses (there is a loose toaster size rock that hasn't been removed yet here) until the belay bolts are reached. Look for the pin eyes along the way. One pin is in questionable rock. Climb is a little bit lichen covered but this doesn't detract from the cl...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Wonderland Slideshow Add Photo
<span class='mptextHighlight'><b>View full size image</b></span> <br /> <br />This unfrequented area has some large, loose rock (above lower crags and hiking trails) and is not an appropriate area for neophytes.
BETA PHOTO: View full size image This unfrequented area has s...
Central Wall of Wonderwall. The quartz wall at the top left of this photo and the wall below it is the second half of the second pitch of 'White Rabbit'. 'Wendall's Dike' is unseen in this photo. It stops anyone from getting to this section of the crag. Chesire Cat starts to the left of the Oak tree besides the Pine tree in this photo.
Central Wall of Wonderwall. The quartz wall at the...
This is the upper start to Wendell's Dike' (winter ascent). The dike begins after the large pine trees above this crag band. Ryan Barber is approaching the pin. There are three ways up it and two share the same pin. The third is right of the pin and misses using it.
BETA PHOTO: This is the upper start to Wendell's Dike' (winter...

Comments on Wonderland Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 24, 2012
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 6, 2010
I see the route called Rocket Science is listed under The Hinterlands also, is there enough potential at "Wonderland" to warrant its own area? If so I will have to check it out...
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 6, 2010
I kind of like the name "Wonderland". When I checked it out years ago, I was all excited about the amount of rock that was up there too, but was put off by the loose, broken, vegetated approach. It may be worth another look for those willing to put in a lot of work, but like Bradley says, you are way above the approach trail, the edge of Triple Corners and even the Starship Enterprise Crag, so you would have to be super careful about anything cutting loose. I don't think it is worth having a bunch of fixed lines and ladders just to get up to a few mediocre routes. Somebody had a bunch of crap up there before, but I reduced it to the one ladder and moved it to where it is now to make it look better. With an imaginative way of dealing with the approach you might find something good though.

If you are looking for new route potential you may be better off looking up in the area around Very Nice Crack, up and left of Flea Surgeon (funky approach, maybe drop in from above like the Verdon), or one of the craglets above Bonsai (Pauly's Paradise). I won't tell you the other places yet ;)
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 7, 2010
ooooo my bad i didnt realize it was already posted... the guide book has it under hinterlands so i posted it there... if you want to take mine down thats fine but my description is a bit more in depth so i think it could be useful...
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 7, 2010
might this be a better place for Wrong Turn (5.10c)?
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 7, 2010
Sounds good to me. Maybe everything above the gully with the fixed line from Triple Corners, up to where you would skirt around to get to the ladder. There is interesting lower angled rock to the right of the gully leading up to The Crows Nest, but I feel it would entail too much destruction to a picturesque ecosystem to put up routes there. I guess that could be called Wonderland too though, as it is beautiful. I would recommend not climbing Wonderland opposite Giantman to protect all the ferns. Ward is going to have to do a new book soon!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 7, 2010
Sounds good ill move my new route...
i agree whole heartedly about that wall of ferns i would love to see that stay the way it is... so pretty... I was eyeing it the other day but it wouldnt be worth killing such a cool eco system...
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 8, 2010
Wow, Bradley. Have a cup of coffee, and good day to you.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 8, 2010
When we were talking about the fern garden and suggesting that it be preserved, we were talking about the wall up the gully further, opposite Giantman, not where you were climbing. I don't think either of us were mocking you or your adventurous climb at all.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 8, 2010
wow bradley... first off as mark said we were not making fun of you in any way.... your post was a total blind side... our posts were unrelated to you and your route... you couldnt be more wrong about me... i was just looking at your route "Fixing a hole" the other day (thinking it hadnt been done) and talking to my friend about climbing it cause it looked like a cool feature... i love that kind of climbing and i commend you on the adventure climbs you do...
it seems like the internet way would be to continue the negativity... i cant stant that stuff, so here... im willing to strike all the mean things you said about me from the record if you relax little and be willing to shake my hand when you see me at the crag... this is supposed to be a supportive climbing community and i do my best to live that way...
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 9, 2010
All's cool. Misunderstandings happen.
By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Mar 24, 2012
Who stole the ladder? It completely disappeared over the winter...