Wonderland North Rock Climbing
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The North Wonderland (and the Wonderland in general) is the antithesis of the "bumper belay" crags found in Indian Cove. Although flat, approaches are as much as 3+ miles and 1+ hours of hiking. As such, it sees less traffic than most areas of the Park. Those who venture out will be rewarded with some classic obscure lines as well as a respite from the crowds at Hidden Valley and Lost Horse.
Use the Wonderland Trail approach (see below) for Outward Bound Slab, Cool Dome, Hidden Dome, Ellsmere Island and Gilligan's Island.
The Atom Smashers, Hooter Rocks, The Foot, Super Dome, Super Slab, Super Block, Lemon Dome, Lime Dome, The Dunce Cap, Suicide Horn, The Fortress and The Castle lie further north near Willow Hole.
There is also a small cluster of rocks just east of the parking area which include Reggie Dome, Bubba Rock, B-52 Rock and Garage Rock.
Park at the "Key's Corner" Trailhead, 1/2 mile east of Trashcan Rock along Quail Springs Road. This will be on your left at a wide right turn if you are driving from town. Most areas lie to the north and are accessed by the Boy Scout Hiking And Equestrian Trail.
Weather station 9.4 miles from here
317 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',35],['2 Stars',118],['1 Star',141],['Bomb',4]
Classic Climbing Routes in Wonderland North
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Wonderland North:
Featured Route For Wonderland North
Spirited Away 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
: Joshua Tree National Park
: ... : The Dunce Cap
This route stands among the best in the entire Park. Bold, but adequately protected, the signature second pitch offers continuous climbing in a stellar position.Begin near the center of the North Face (right of center in Beta Photo), at the foot of the base of the rock, on the left side of a large rectangular block (in sunlight in Beta Photo). Pitch 1: Up cracks on the left side of the block to a very large flat ledge (5.8). Pitch 2: Move up and left to a discontinuous seam/crack which is follow...[more] Browse More Classics in CA