Kris Solem on Roomis E. Gloomis (5.10d PG) in Wond...
The North Wonderland (and the Wonderland in general) is the antithesis of the "bumper belay" crags found in Indian Cove. Although flat, approaches are as much as 3+ miles and 1+ hours of hiking. As such, it sees less traffic than most areas of the Park. Those who venture out will be rewarded with some classic obscure lines as well as a respite from the crowds at Hidden Valley and Lost Horse.
Use the Wonderland Trail approach (see below) for Outward Bound Slab, Cool Dome, Hidden Dome, Ellsmere Island and Gilligan's Island.
The Atom Smashers, Hooter Rocks, The Foot, Super Dome, Super Slab, Super Block, Lemon Dome, Lime Dome, The Dunce Cap, Suicide Horn, The Fortress and The Castle lie further north near Willow Hole.
There is also a small cluster of rocks just east of the parking area which include Reggie Dome, Bubba Rock, B-52 Rock and Garage Rock.
Park at the "Key's Corner" Trailhead, 1/2 mile east of Trashcan Rock along Quail Springs Road. This will be on your left at a wide right turn if you are driving from town. Most areas lie to the north and are accessed by the Boy Scout Hiking And Equestrian Trail.
Weather station 9.4 miles from here
309 Total Routes
['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',34],['2 Stars',116],['1 Star',138],['Bomb',4]
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Wonderland North:
Featured Route For Wonderland North
The Last Unicorn 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
: Joshua Tree National Park
: ... : The Super Dome
This route ascends the middle of the impressive south face of The Super Dome; taking the obvious line of weakness. Start just left of a left facing corner-block (Bleed Proof), behind a small oak tree. This route still sports 1/4 inch bolts (could use replacing) and sporty climbing on both pitches. But for climbers solid at the grade, the line definitely beckons...P1: Climb up about 25 feet to a bolt (a small sling on a horn can protect getting to bolt). Head back down a bit, then begin...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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