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Wonderland North

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Atom Smasher Boulders 
B-52 Rock 
Bear Island 
Bobcat Rock 
Brownie Girl Dome 
Castle, The 
Convenience Store, The 
Cool Dome 
Deli, The 
Disappointment Dome 
Dunce Cap, The 
Ellsmere Island 
Financial Wall 
Flying Fortress 
Foot, The 
Fortress, The 
Gilligan's Island 
Greatest Love Songs Ever Written Crag 
Grey Giant 
Grinch Rock 
Guardhouse, The 
Hidden Dome 
Hooter Rock 
Ivory Tower 
Key's Point 
Lazy Dome 
Lemon Dome 
Lil' Climber Chick Area 
Lime Dome 
Looking Glass, The 
Middle Kingdom 
Mustang Ranch 
New Jersey Dome 
Not So Cool Dome 
Outer Mongolia 
Outward Bound Slab 
Parapsychology Dome 
Patch Dome 
Peril Rock 
Reggie Dome 
Seitch, The 
Snake Dome 
Suicide Horn Rock 
Super Block, The 
Super Dome, The 
Super Slab, The 
Thrilling Rock 
Tia Dome  
Timbuktu Towers 
Tombstone, The 
Unreported Rock 

Wonderland North  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 4,200'
Location: 34.072, -116.1516 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 241,835
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: M.Morley on Jan 3, 2004
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Description 

The North Wonderland (and the Wonderland in general) is the antithesis of the "bumper belay" crags found in Indian Cove. Although flat, approaches are as much as 3+ miles and 1+ hours of hiking. As such, it sees less traffic than most areas of the Park. Those who venture out will be rewarded with some classic obscure lines as well as a respite from the crowds at Hidden Valley and Lost Horse.

Use the Wonderland Trail approach (see below) for Outward Bound Slab, Cool Dome, Hidden Dome, Ellsmere Island and Gilligan's Island.

The Atom Smashers, Hooter Rocks, The Foot, Super Dome, Super Slab, Super Block, Lemon Dome, Lime Dome, The Dunce Cap, Suicide Horn, The Fortress and The Castle lie further north near Willow Hole.

There is also a small cluster of rocks just east of the parking area which include Reggie Dome, Bubba Rock, B-52 Rock and Garage Rock.


Getting There 

Park at the "Key's Corner" Trailhead, 1/2 mile east of Trashcan Rock along Quail Springs Road. This will be on your left at a wide right turn if you are driving from town. Most areas lie to the north and are accessed by the Wonderland Trail.


Climbing Season



Weather station 6.9 miles from here

303 Total Routes

['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',35],['2 Stars',114],['1 Star',133],['Bomb',4]
['<=5.6',38],['5.7',41],['5.8',33],['5.9',51],['5.10',102],['5.11',30],['5.12',3],['5.13',5],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Wonderland North:
Route 66   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Gilligan's Island : Mary Ann's Face
The Chief   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Reggie Dome
Asian Fever   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   West Mongolia : Asian Fever Buttress
Pops Goes Hawaiian   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Reggie Dome
George's Route (aka Binder)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Outer Mongolia : Siberia
A Bull with Gas   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Outer Mongolia : Siberia
Yasmine Bleeth   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Outer Mongolia : Siberia
Dos Chi Chis   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 240'   Outer Mongolia : Siberia
Love Gas   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Outer Mongolia : Siberia
Too Secret to Find   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Hidden Dome
Bighorn Dihedral   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Suicide Horn Rock
No Self Confidence   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   Flying Fortress
Natural Selection   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   The Fortress
No Self Respect   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   Flying Fortress
The Shiv   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   The Seitch
The Last Unicorn   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R     Trad, 2 pitches, 230'   The Super Dome
Spirited Away   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 220'   The Dunce Cap
Hyperion   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 180'   Grey Giant
Ionic Strength   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Atom Smasher Boulders
Hydra   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Super Block
Browse More Classics in Wonderland North

Featured Route For Wonderland North
 Randy Leavitt  on Natural Selection, Bob Horan Co...

Natural Selection 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Fortress
Natural Selection is a very thin crack in a small right facing corner about 30-40 yards left of Catapult. There is a small roof halfway up. Start a little to the right and climb easy rock to a stance 30' up. Here, step left into the shallow corner. There's no distinct crux, pretty fun climbing the whole way....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Local Information for Wonderland North
Photos of Wonderland North Slideshow Add Photo
Spadefoot Toad, near Willow Hole. Nice camo. Photo...
Spadefoot Toad, near Willow Hole. Nice camo. Photo...
Sunset from the trailhead. PHoto by Blitzo.
Sunset from the trailhead. PHoto by Blitzo.
New Jersey Dome and Brownie Girl Dome Domes
New Jersey Dome and Brownie Girl Dome Domes
Desert oasis in the north Wonderland
Desert oasis in the north Wonderland
Moonrise over Wonderland North
Moonrise over Wonderland North
Wonderland North sunset
Wonderland North sunset
The Wonderland Trail. Photo by Blitzo.
The Wonderland Trail. Photo by Blitzo.
Bruce doing some bouldering somewhere deep into th...
Bruce doing some bouldering somewhere deep into th...
Beauty
Beauty
A small portion of the northern Wonderland as seen...
BETA PHOTO: A small portion of the northern Wonderland as seen...
New Jersey Dome Photo by Blitzo.
New Jersey Dome Photo by Blitzo.
Moving through the dihedral. Photo by Dizz.
Moving through the dihedral. Photo by Dizz.
J-tree in bloom. Photo by Blitzo.
J-tree in bloom. Photo by Blitzo.
Wonderland-North. Photo by Blitzo.
Wonderland-North. Photo by Blitzo.
The Techulator
BETA PHOTO: The Techulator
Another sunset from near Reggie Dome. Photo by Bli...
Another sunset from near Reggie Dome. Photo by Bli...
Nice miniature formation
Nice miniature formation
Pernicious Dome
Pernicious Dome
Super Slab and Super Dome from the east. Photo by ...
Super Slab and Super Dome from the east. Photo by ...
Willow Hole. Photo by Blitzo.
Willow Hole. Photo by Blitzo.
Out in The Wonderland North. Photo by Blitzo.
Out in The Wonderland North. Photo by Blitzo.
Ivory and Timbuktu Towers area. Photo by Blitzo.
Ivory and Timbuktu Towers area. Photo by Blitzo.
The North Wonderland from the south, Joshua Tree N...
The North Wonderland from the south, Joshua Tree N...
Wonderland North. Photo by Blitzo.
Wonderland North. Photo by Blitzo.

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