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Wonderland North

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Atom Smasher Area 
Grey Giant Area 
Middle Kingdom, The 
North Wonderland Approach 
Willow Hole Area 

Wonderland North Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 4,200'
Location: 34.04098, -116.18582 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 57,001
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: M.Morley on Jan 3, 2004
Forecast:
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Description 

The North Wonderland (and the Wonderland in general) is the antithesis of the "bumper belay" crags found in Indian Cove. Although flat, approaches are as much as 3+ miles and 1+ hours of hiking. As such, it sees less traffic than most areas of the Park. Those who venture out will be rewarded with some classic obscure lines as well as a respite from the crowds at Hidden Valley and Lost Horse.

Use the Wonderland Trail approach (see below) for Outward Bound Slab, Cool Dome, Hidden Dome, Ellsmere Island and Gilligan's Island.

The Atom Smashers, Hooter Rocks, The Foot, Super Dome, Super Slab, Super Block, Lemon Dome, Lime Dome, The Dunce Cap, Suicide Horn, The Fortress and The Castle lie further north near Willow Hole.

There is also a small cluster of rocks just east of the parking area which include Reggie Dome, Bubba Rock, B-52 Rock and Garage Rock.


Getting There 

Park at the "Key's Corner" Trailhead, 1/2 mile east of Trashcan Rock along Quail Springs Road. This will be on your left at a wide right turn if you are driving from town. Most areas lie to the north and are accessed by the Boy Scout Hiking And Equestrian Trail.

Climbing Season



Weather station 9.4 miles from here

317 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',35],['2 Stars',118],['1 Star',141],['Bomb',4]
['<=5.6',41],['5.7',42],['5.8',35],['5.9',50],['5.10',109],['5.11',32],['5.12',3],['5.13',5],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Wonderland North

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Wonderland North:
Route 66   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Gilligan's Island : Mary Ann's Face
The Chief   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   North Wonderland Approach : Reggie Dome
Pops Goes Hawaiian   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   North Wonderland Approach : Reggie Dome
George's Route (aka Binder)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Outer Mongolia : Siberia
Yasmine Bleeth   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Outer Mongolia : Siberia
Dos Chi Chis   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 240'   Outer Mongolia : Siberia
Love Gas   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Outer Mongolia : Siberia
Too Secret to Find   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   North Wonderland Approach : Hidden Dome
No Self Confidence   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   Grey Giant Area : The Flying Fortress
Bighorn Dihedral   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Willow Hole Area : Suicide Horn Rock
Heaven Can Wait   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Grey Giant Area : The Tombstone
Natural Selection   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Grey Giant Area : The Fortress
The Last Unicorn   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R     Trad, 2 pitches, 230'   Willow Hole Area : The Super Dome
The S Cracker   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Grey Giant Area : The Tombstone
Catapult   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   Grey Giant Area : The Fortress
The Knight In Shining Armor   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Grey Giant Area : The Castle
Spirited Away   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 220'   Willow Hole Area : The Dunce Cap
Hyperion   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 180'   Grey Giant Area : Grey Giant
Warrior Eagle   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 45'   Grey Giant Area : The Castle
Hydra   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Willow Hole Area : The Super Block
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Wonderland North

Featured Route For Wonderland North
Rock Climbing Photo: DE on the FA during the "Acid Traverse."...

The Last Unicorn 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Super Dome
This route ascends the middle of the impressive south face of The Super Dome; taking the obvious line of weakness. Start just left of a left facing corner-block (Bleed Proof), behind a small oak tree. This route sports new 3/8 inch bolts and sporty climbing on both pitches. But for climbers solid at the grade, the line definitely beckons......[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Wonderland North Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Spadefoot Toad, near Willow Hole. Nice camo. Photo...
Spadefoot Toad, near Willow Hole. Nice camo. Photo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunset from the trailhead. PHoto by Blitzo.
Sunset from the trailhead. PHoto by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kris Solem on Roomis E. Gloomis (5.10d PG) in Wond...
Kris Solem on Roomis E. Gloomis (5.10d PG) in Wond...
Rock Climbing Photo: Wonderland North sunset
Wonderland North sunset
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving through the dihedral. Photo by Dizz.
Moving through the dihedral. Photo by Dizz.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking north to the North Wonderland on a clear d...
Looking north to the North Wonderland on a clear d...
Rock Climbing Photo: Moonrise over Wonderland North
Moonrise over Wonderland North
Rock Climbing Photo: New Jersey Dome and Brownie Girl Dome Domes
New Jersey Dome and Brownie Girl Dome Domes
Rock Climbing Photo: Desert oasis in the north Wonderland
Desert oasis in the north Wonderland
Rock Climbing Photo: Gram Parsons with the Wonderland North in the back...
Gram Parsons with the Wonderland North in the back...
Rock Climbing Photo: Beauty
Beauty
Rock Climbing Photo: Super Slab and Super Dome from the east. Photo by ...
Super Slab and Super Dome from the east. Photo by ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Wonderland North
Wonderland North
Rock Climbing Photo: J-tree in bloom. Photo by Blitzo.
J-tree in bloom. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Wonderland North. Photo by Blitzo.
Wonderland North. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Nice miniature formation
Nice miniature formation
Rock Climbing Photo: Come and get your Love Gas.
Come and get your Love Gas.
Rock Climbing Photo: A lone Cholla takes hold and fights for survival.
A lone Cholla takes hold and fights for survival.
Rock Climbing Photo: The North Wonderland from the south, Joshua Tree N...
The North Wonderland from the south, Joshua Tree N...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pernicious Dome
Pernicious Dome
Rock Climbing Photo: The Techulator
BETA PHOTO: The Techulator
Rock Climbing Photo:  Bear Island
Bear Island
Rock Climbing Photo: The Seitch (SW face)
The Seitch (SW face)
Rock Climbing Photo: El Dorado
El Dorado

Show All 34 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

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