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Wondering what to focus your training on?
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Jun 18, 2012
I created this short training video to help you figure out what to focus on in your training. This depends on what stage you are at in your climbing development. Which of these 4 stages are you in?

You can find more training information at:

I hope you get a lot out of these videos.
Don McGrath
From fort collins, CO
Joined May 14, 2008
40 points
Jun 18, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: smoke break, pitch 5 or 6 (or 7??) of Dark Shadows
Hi Don,

Can I ask... what's your credentials? Just curious. I see from your website you have a PhD (in what?), also, it mentions "personal experimentation and research into the science of human performance". Not much else to go off. Can you offer a list of publications perhaps?

Eric Krantz
From Black Hills
Joined Feb 21, 2004
469 points
Jun 19, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Mathematical!
I'm trying to figure out what the catch is. Where do you make your money on this? If it was truly a series of free instructional videos, you wouldn't need a name and e-mail address, you'd just post it online.

Maybe your videos are great, but the website seems a little sketch. I'm always leery of people who say they have the answer to my "problem," and that they want to give it to me for "free."
Finn the Human
From The Land of Ooo
Joined Jul 11, 2008
143 points
Jun 19, 2012
Hey Eric and Taylor, thanks for the comments.
I'm not sure what you would consider credentials, but I'll share what I think I have to offer.

My Ph.D. is in engineering and I have 40 patents and 14 technical publications, but that probably isn't of interest. I mention it because that is how I make my living. I manage groups of engineers around the world designing chips. It's a very lucrative gig.

One of my non-work interests is education. I have done quite a bit of teaching as an adjunct faculty, and in the past few years I have turned my attention into doing research for and writing books. I think I have a knack for gathering information, synthesizing it, and communicating it in a way that people can consume and learn.

In this vein, I wrote my first book,50 Athletes Over 50, a few years ago and recently published my second, Feel Younger - Now, which was an amazon best seller and recently won an award.

So, now I'm turning my attention to taking what I know about climbing, and doing research into physical and mental training to help others figure out how to train. I may write another book, maybe not. I may create a seminar, maybe not. Not sure.

Right now, I'm doing research and sharing what I know and what I learn in what I hope is an enjoyable and valuable way.

I learned from doing my books that it is fair and useful to get contact info of people who like what you have to share, so that's why the opt-in. You can opt-out at any time.

Do you find the videos useful? I like to get feedback so I can make what I'm doing even more valuable.
Don McGrath
From fort collins, CO
Joined May 14, 2008
40 points
Jun 19, 2012
I'd respectfully suggest that this information might be more efficiently presented as an article with a chart in it, rather than as a video. In written form I could have covered the whole thing in 1-2 minutes, versus 9 for the video.

Also, it didn't feel to me like there was anything "actionable" suggested by the material, just general areas to consider.
From New Paltz
Joined Aug 29, 2007
329 points
Jun 19, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Young Good Free Face, 11b
Hey Don,

Haven't seen your latest videos between working my ass of to get off early everyday to go climb. But the video about the foot & hand (maybe the hand video was from another thread) was cool. However simple, you put some new images in my head to conceptualize which is always a good thing.

I'm excited to see how your ideas about how to influence climbers of all levels positively will evolve. I'll be keeping tabs for sure and I'll try like hell to think of constructive insights to offer.

J. Broussard
From CordryCorner
Joined Feb 21, 2011
112 points
Jun 19, 2012
I agree with previous posts that video length was too long. A chart would take 5-10 seconds to review and then direct a climber to specific actionable steps for their level.
The guidance was very general. Work on footwork- How? Work on injury preventation- how?
Joined Jul 20, 2008
1,133 points

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