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Up the left-facing dihedral
Fun, thin climbing at the beginning leads through the crux to a left facing dihedral. Great moves all the way up the dihedral take you to a small overhang and up to the anchors.
This is a fantastic climb: great rock, moves, and variety -- and the view is pretty stellar as well. While in this area, the two routes to the left are also great -- Bad Egg and Duck -- both rated 5.11b.
This route can be approached from either the Fried Egg (East) face or the routes on the North Face.
From the Fried Egg face: walk around the Egg up the trail close to the cliff that goes through the bushes -- don't go back down the the lower trail that circumnavigates the entire crag. You'll soon come to a 1 meter step in the trail you'll need to scramble up. The route climbs the obvious dihedral straight up from the landing above this step.
From the North: walk along the cliff, through the cave, and along the narrow ledge. You'll come to another cave that you can either climb though or down a couple steps to the left. Belay at obvious belay spot down these steps, above the final 1 meter drop to the trail that continues to the Fried Egg face. The route ascends the obvious dihedral above.
Bolts to a fixed chain anchor. Safe lead, easy to top rope.
By Nate Ball
From: Portland, OR
Sep 13, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Very easy to get suckered right by the big ruse holds at 2nd/3rd bolt. I went for them but then found myself having to do a much more difficult step back left, fell, then realized the sequence didn't go that way at all. Otherwise really fun, straightforward laybacking up the crack.