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Wonder Wall
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Wonder Wall 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b R

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 450', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: FA-Paul Ross & Jeff Pheasant FFA-Ed Webster & Russ Clune
Page Views: 669
Submitted By: nhclimber on Nov 12, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

Pitch 1: 5.7r climb the slab to the ledge, double bolt anchor on ledge.

Pitch 2: 5.12 Climb to the right of the anchor with thin gear till you can reach the pin, then make increasingly difficult moves into a hollow flake system. Take your time and place good gear and make an easy mantle onto the top of the flake. Climb with difficulty up and get a good nut, then a bolt. Make a HARD mantel onto a flat shelf. Now climb a shallow corner past three bolts (crux) and a pin to another suspect flake, protect and move to the anchor, bolt and pin.

Pitch 3: 5.10b Climb up a ramp off the anchor until you can clip the first bolt move right and back left clip a second bolt and continue onto a slab below a shallow corner and the offwidth roof. Careful getting into the offwidth as the gear is less than ideal. This OW is supposed to be 5.9. Tell me if you find it. Thrutch and struggle up the offwidth to easier climbing and a tree belay.

Move the anchor up to the upper Wonder Wall traverse ledge.

Pitch 4: 5.6 Climb up the left side of the pillar to a pine tree belay. Be careful of the stacked death blocks.

Pitch 5: 5.8x

Pitch 6: 5.10a or 5.10d

Location 

Start below the middle of the wonderwall traverse ledge and maybe 75' to the right of the slime gulley.

Protection 

Doubles with wide cams for the 3rd pitch (wc 5&6). RP's and lots of nuts.


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By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Nov 12, 2009

We climbed a .9+ (.10c) first pitch, not sure of the name but it starts off as an awkward fist crack to and OW up high. And we climbed part of ladyslipper into wonderwall for the fifth pitch at .9+r (you don't want to fall). Also, anyone on upper wonderwall it wouldn't hurt to replace some of the older bolts. If we get on this again this year we will bring a kit.
By samuel von hammerstien
Oct 25, 2013

the OW is weird climbing. you have to OW with one half your body and slab climb with the other half. defiantly awkward. I think we only had a #3 camalot and I think the gear was fine but going off memory here.