Jonathan Baldassare on Science Friction
This is the biggest steep wall in the Conway area. The climbing here is mostly crimpy face climbing in the hard 5.10 to 5.12 range but also hosts some nice cracks, corners, flakes, roofs and more. There are even a few off the beaten path moderates if you aren't up to cranking hard but you wish to escape the crowds. Classic face climbs like Last Unicorn 5.10c and Science Friction Wall 5.11a are the real prizes of the wall.
The Wonder Wall is a huge and complex section of Whitehorse's South Buttress area between the Atlantis area and the Children's Crusade Wall. The Wonder Wall is split by 2 large horizontal ledges dividing the Upper Wonder Wall, Lower Wonder Wall, and some nice single pitch base routes below the bulk of the wall. There are only a few routes that climb the entire wall and its pretty easy to guess where those start...the bottom.
BASE ROUTES: Getting to the base of Wonder Wall is pretty easy. Just follow the trail from the slabs south past Echo Roof and Ethereal Buttress and continue past the black wall of Children's Crusade. Wonder Wall is next. If you get to a steep broken "sporty cliff" you went a little too far. Many routes here are independent single pitch routes, but some are the start of long demanding full length jobbies.
LOWER LEDGE: Above these single pitch routes is a nice ledge where some more one pitch lines start and some long routes continue from. You can access the routes on this ledge by climbing your choice of climbs from the base.
UPPER WONDER WALL: It is a bit more involved to get to the base of the lines on the Upper Wonder Wall that start from a ledge 250 feet off the ground. Either climb to the ledge using one of the routes from the Lower Wall (most of which are pretty challenging) or get your self to the base of Lost Souls on the right side of the Atlantis area. To get there, you must follow the South Buttress Trail instead of following the cliff base trail or from the base of Wonder Wall walk south to the nasty gully (don't climb the gully) move left around the small steep broken cliff and up through the woods to the base of Atlantis Area.
When you get to the base of The Atlantis Area, move to the right until you are just above a nasty gully, scramble up a 4th class section above you heading right to a nice ledge. Walk right on the ledge until you are in a cluster of trees with a slab to your right, there is an obvious bolt on it (the first bolt on Lost Souls) and on the other side of the slab will be a big gully of trees, traverse across the slab at about 5.5 and in to the tree gully, up the gully to the ledge at the base of upper Wonder Wall. To get to Last Unicorn and it's neighbors, from the right side of the ledge make another traverse about 5.4 over to a large spruce tree at the base of Last Unicorn.
Follow directions to Children's Crusade
and continue along the cliff base. You can scramble through the woods, but getting lost sucks.
For detailed directions to the different sections of this complex cliff, see the main description above.
11 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Wonder Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Wonder Wall:
Ladyslipper 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 125'
Sky Streak 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Featured Route For Wonder Wall
The Last Unicorn 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b NH
: Whitehorse Ledge
: ... : Wonder Wall
Pitch 1a) Sky Streak start: From the two bolt anchor 25' off the Wonder Wall tree ledge, step left and climb a short, steep wall past two bolts, move up on easier ground to a ledge and a bolt. Traverse right to the first belay on The Last Unicorn. 5.10b. Pitch 1b) Note: Rockfall may have altered the start of this pitch. The Sky Streak start is more commonly used. The original start: traverse down and right passing the latter two bolt anchor for almost a pitch and start a large, d...[more] Browse More Classics in NH
Latest Regional Forum Messages
BETA PHOTO: Horrible photo and drawing. This is the bottom of ...
First Ascent Science Friction Wall. Looking down p...
Jonathan near the end of the original finish of Sc...