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Womb with a View 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Scott/Aaron
Page Views: 262
Submitted By: bio on Mar 25, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

Excellent sport route with two distinct cruxes. Up blasted rock clipping 3rd bolt at first crux, a steep undercling with a foot smear to a finger/hand crack in a buldge. pull the move and place a small cam approx .75 then clip more bolts to second thin crux and bolts to two bolt anchor


Location 

walk left of humpty about 100 feet past broken/gully area to wall.


Protection 

bolts and one cam



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By brucy
Apr 22, 2010

Thought that the route was bogus with sporty distances between bolts on friable rock. Though aggresive cleaning might have produced a more enjoyable route we admit that it's entirely possible that it's so fundamentally chossy that it's virtually impossible to successfully clean- though that begs the question that if that is true, whether the route should have been put up to begin with. The cams in question for the central portions of the route would be anything from 3/4"- 1 1/2"; while that was the least challenging portion of the climb we thought it ridiculous that it wasn't bolted. The crux felt like the section between the second to last and the last bolt. The penalty for pitching off there might produce a smash-up on the corner below. The anchor consists of two (2) bolts with one 6" above the other, so that only one bolt is feeling ones weight on descent. Having the anchor to the right of the crack ensures that if one decides to lower or yo-yo ones second- the rope is sucked into the crack at the top- it would have been much better served if the anchor was to the "left" of the crack but that would have required consideration of the subsequent ascentionists.