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The Double Clutching Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
11:11 (AKA "Welcome to the Waterfall") T 
Block Party T 
Checkin' the Oil T 
Checkin' The Oil Direct T 
Chronic, The T 
Comin In Hot T,S 
Crux Deluxe T 
Double Clutching T 
Double Helix T 
In a Blunt T 
Rude Awakening T 
Super Chronic T 
SwitchBlade T 
Terminal Mocha T 
Thin Faith T 
Wolverine T 


YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: D Bloom
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall, winter spring
Page Views: 1,073
Submitted By: Floater on Mar 11, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Joel finishing his scrap with one of nature's most...


This route has a long history, Back in 1993 Eric Muedt and John Govi hand drilled the one bolt on the route. Many years later a rumor surfaced that this climb was called White Lie and rated 5.11+. A couple of years ago I was curious about the line so I got on it. Much to my surprise the route was way harder and had no anchors. Luckily we had hardware that day and a project was born. After a few seasons and several partners the route was sent at the end of February 2013. Definitely one of the hardest pitches at The Waterfall and super quality.


Start on the Chronic, traverse right at 25' past a lone bolt, and climb second dihedral on the right.


(3) #00, (1) #0, (2) 0.3, (2) 0.4, (2) 0.5, (1) 2.0

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By Abel Jones
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 10, 2013

Nice Dave... Thought that thing had to be 13 based on the effort you were putting into it while floating up everything else in the area. Can't wait to check it out some day.
By Casey Niggemyer
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Dec 14, 2014

I would add a red slider to the rack for wolverine. While the climbing that it protects is probably only 5.10, it is the only gear There and would be quite run out without it.
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