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From the top of the climber's trail, turn left (N) and walk about 100 feet to a large belay area with comfortable rocks under the low-angle varnished slabs. The first of a group of 3 cracks breaking the slab is Crack 1. The first 30' are easy and blocky and then the fun begins with a thin fractured crack leading the entire way to the anchors. A crux involves trusting a very small wire and trusting your fingers, not your feet - they don't stick to desert varnish!
Excellent easier route in the area. This is the easiest and safest route by which to set up TRs of Cracks 2 and 3 (to the left). Rap or lower 75'.
Crack 1 is also the first pitch of Wolverine (5.11) that continues up the vertical wall above and right of the Crack 1 anchors. The dihedral straight up (just left) is unknown as of this report.
Small gear to a #1 camalot and a couple of small wires (#2 RP works nicely). Two-bolt anchor on top.
BETA PHOTO: Slab climbing on TR just right of Crack 1 at the I...
Ryan Sayers starting up
Ryan Sayers nearing the anchors
Chuck following Wolverine as Steve Arsenault lower...
BETA PHOTO: Wolverine or called crack one if you have the Moab...
|By Shane Zentner|
Mar 16, 2004
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c
Fun with small gear for the crack. A nice way to start or end the day in a spectacular setting. We were here after climbing at Wall Street all day and enjoyed the cool evening and light at 5:00.
Sep 14, 2004
This was a fun, short route. For me, as an intermediate climber, it was a good route to increase my foot placement skills and increase my trust in my feet. When you get to the crack with the varnish, you can concentrate on placing your feet on small features and use the crack for balancing hand placements. This would also be a great warm-up route.
|By Andrew May|
From: Sandy, UT
Oct 5, 2006
I'm pretty sure this climb is called Wolverine.
|By Greg D|
Feb 10, 2008
It is Wolverine. There are two more pitches to this route at 5.11.
|By Mark L|
May 13, 2008
If I remember correctly this crack had a few thin moves with little to jam, protect or toe cam about half way up for those with larger fingers/feet. not R but I couldn't plug a piece in near this section.
|By Josh Cameron|
Jun 12, 2011
A fun climb with great finger locks. Seemed like there was a long reach to a good finger lock. If your here and you lead 5.8, then be sure to get on this climb.
|By Mark Melvin|
Oct 12, 2013
Okay, the description for Wolverine is simply wrong. Crack 1 is a nice route, separate of Wolverine, which is more or less 5.8. Wolverine could take off from the belay anchor of Crack 1 or Crack 2 or Crack 3. It is the next two pitches up the very steep face. And it is rated 5.11, according to descriptions. Super simple: Crack 1: 5.8. Wolverine: 5.11. I only did the first pitch of Wolverine, which I'd say is 5.10b to about half way, but I think very hard 5.11 to the bottom of the roof, maybe 5.11d (could be more, involves a finger pocket with off-angle foot moves to a pinch and slot, then grovel to the roof, which lost me the on-sight, full disclosure and major bummer). The roof is well protected with two bolts, and the moves are probably 5.11b, maybe easier. I didn't do the second pitch. If anyone knows how to change the initial description to fix the error to correct this information, I would recommend it. Gear for the first pitch is two or three tiny cams, and then a couple each up to maybe .75 camelot, and one each to #3. It's a very good route though, maybe 3 stars out of 4. Incidentally, Crack 2 is really a 5.8X or toprope, easy, but not a lead.