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BETA PHOTO: From the belay on Crack 1, Ice Cream Parlor - craz...
From the top of the climber's trail, turn left (N) and walk about 100 feet to a large belay area with comfortable rocks under the low-angle varnished slabs. The first of a group of 3 cracks breaking the slab is Crack 1. The first 30' are easy and blocky and then the fun begins with a thin fractured crack leading the entire way to the anchors. A crux involves trusting a very small wire and trusting your fingers, not your feet - they don't stick to desert varnish!
Excellent easier route in the area. This is the easiest and safest route by which to set up TRs of Cracks 2 and 3 (to the left). Rap or lower 75'.
Crack 1 is also the first pitch of Wolverine (5.11) that continues up the vertical wall above and right of the Crack 1 anchors. The dihedral straight up (just left) is unknown as of this report.
Small gear to a #1 camalot and a couple of small wires (#2 RP works nicely). Two-bolt anchor on top.
BETA PHOTO: Slab climbing on TR just right of Crack 1 at the I...
Ryan Sayers starting up
Ryan Sayers nearing the anchors
Chuck following Wolverine as Steve Arsenault lower...
Crack 1 after the easy but runnout lower portion
BETA PHOTO: Wolverine or called crack one if you have the Moab...
|By Shane Zentner|
Mar 16, 2004
Fun with small gear for the crack. A nice way to start or end the day in a spectacular setting. We were here after climbing at Wall Street all day and enjoyed the cool evening and light at 5:00.
Sep 14, 2004
This was a fun, short route. For me, as an intermediate climber, it was a good route to increase my foot placement skills and increase my trust in my feet. When you get to the crack with the varnish, you can concentrate on placing your feet on small features and use the crack for balancing hand placements. This would also be a great warm-up route.
|By Andrew May|
From: Sandy, UT
Oct 5, 2006
I'm pretty sure this climb is called Wolverine.
|By Greg D|
Feb 10, 2008
It is Wolverine. There are two more pitches to this route at 5.11.
|By Mark L|
May 13, 2008
If I remember correctly this crack had a few thin moves with little to jam, protect or toe cam about half way up for those with larger fingers/feet. not R but I couldn't plug a piece in near this section.
|By Josh Cameron|
Jun 12, 2011
A fun climb with great finger locks. Seemed like there was a long reach to a good finger lock. If your here and you lead 5.8, then be sure to get on this climb.
|By Brian Wright|
From: Glenwood Springs, Co
Mar 11, 2012
A budding 5.8 leader might have trouble with some placements on this climb. Not bad but interesting. Good fun, though.