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Wolfstein

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
? S 
Böser Wolf S 
Der mit dem Wolf Tanzt S 
Der Wolf und die sieben Geißlein S 
Frau Holle T 
Froschkönig (Frog King) S 
Gretel T,S 
Hans im Glück S 
Hänsel S 
Jubiläumsweg S 
Max und Moritz S 
Nordkante S 
Ostriß T,S 
Pumuckl S 
Rumpelstilzchen S 
Rumpelstilzchen's Zorn S 
Rübezahl T 
Schraege Rissverschneidung S 
Sterntaler S 
Tapferes Schneiderlein S 
Werwolf S 
Westpfeiler (West Buttress) S 
Westwand (Schneewittchen) T 
Witwe Bolte S 
Wolfgang S 

Wolfstein  


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Location: 49.7174, 11.3546 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 501
Administrators: Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Shawn Heath on Jul 6, 2011
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The first thing you see when you walk up to Wolfst...

Description 

The name of this crag in English is Wolf Stone. A lot of the routes are named after fairy tales from the Brothers Grimm.
This is a pretty pleasant place to visit, with a nice view from the top. The routes are for the most part very easy, so it's great for pleasure climbers and beginners. There are 25 routes ranging from 5.1 to 5.11b.
The rock is very featured, offering many pockets and cracks and everything to hold onto or stand on. Most of the routes are less than vertical, but there are a few that are overhanging, and this is where the harder routes are located. The rock also faces every direction. On the north side (where climbs such as Hänsel and Gretel are located), the rock does not dry quickly, so if it has rained recently, forget about getting on them. However, the south side will be dry. You can follow this link ( klettern.frankenjura.com/php3/... )for an overview of the crag and where the routes are generally located.

Getting There 

Getting to this crag can be a little difficult because of its location far away from the Autobahn. The route I took was through lots of villages and is not the same as what I'm describing, so please forgive any errors. Since I live in Erlangen, I'll give you the reverse of the directions we took to get back.
From Erlangen, get on the A73 and travel north to Forchheim (take the Forchheim Süd exit). Continue straight on this road through Forchheim until you see a sign leading you to Ebermannstadt (you will turn right on Bayreuther Straße and cross over the train tracks, then another right to stay on the Bayreuther Straße, then continue without turning). Continue down this road for about 10km, until you can turn right towards Pretzfeld. Continue towards Egloffstein (drive through Pretzfeld, Lützelsdorf, Wannbach, Unterzaunsbach, Schweinthal, and Mostviel). Drive through Egloffstein and continue toward Hammerbühl. Before reaching Hammerbühl, you'll see a sign pointing to the left to go to Geschwand. Take this and go to Geschwand. From Geschwand, take the right leading to Bärnfels. Take Bärnfels Dorfstraße through the town and turn right on Bärnfels Lindenstraße. Take the first dirt road on your left and drive up to the parking. From where you parked, the path heads to the right uphill. Just keep going uphill until you get to the crag.

Climbing Season



Weather station 20.6 miles from here

25 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',13],['5.7',3],['5.8',2],['5.9',0],['5.10',5],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Wolfstein
Follow the yellow line through the four bolts to the top. The beginning starts on the other side.

Tapferes Schneiderlein 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  Europe : Germany : ... : Wolfstein
Difficult, slightly overhanging moves up to the 2nd bolt lead to easier climbing to the top. A very fun, juggy route.The name translates to Valiant Little Tailor....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Wolfstein Slideshow Add Photo
Yellow is Froschkönig, Red is Westwand (Schneewittchen), Blue is Rumpelstilzchen, and Purple is Böser Wolf.
BETA PHOTO: Yellow is Froschkönig, Red is Westwand (Schneewitt...

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