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pitch 2 , approaching the fierce twin crack crux
A well protected climb up the crack system towards the left end of the wall.
P1, 15m, 5b.
Gain the wide crack and struggle strenuously up this to a ledge on the left. Good nut belays.
P2, 30m, 5c.
Move back into the crack and follow it with escalating difficulties to a corner beneath an overhang. Make a final strenous move up into the groove above the overhang with leads quickly to the top. There are good rests and gear most of the way up this pitch, so leave something in the tank for the sustained finish!
Start a short way up the grassy ramp below a prominent wide crack.
Standard rack of wires and cams. A large cam (BD #4) is useful for P1 (and can be placed on P2 if you want). There is a fixed piton in the groove at the top of P2 but it is quite rusty.